Thanks, all things considered the hull is in really good shape and I think a little elbow grease and some light cutting compound and wax will clean up the deck and hull. I just went out and removed the sail from the spars so I can take it to a sail shop today. Because this boat was used (not too many times)/stored (probably hasn’t been touched for 30 years) near the ocean, the grommets on the sails are corroded. The corner grommet is in the worst condition because the “S” hook it was rigged with was not stainless and it rusted while sitting for the last 30 years which also impacted the sail in that corner. I have already ordered a new sail, and I know it will probably cost more than a new sail to bring this one back, but if it can be repaired I will probably do it for the sake of nostalgia. I do have a much newer and very slightly used North Sail coming to me this week and I have all new lines for it. I need to order a new bow handle because the salt air/water got to this one a bit.Nice looking Sunfish! I believe, based on the Model year format, it was made in April, 1979
I put some PB Blaster on it earlier, but no luck so far. If I can’t get it out I may drill a hole in the deck tomorrow and then put in an inspection port. Any advice about that approach?I have a somewhat older '79. Like yours, it has red trim colors and a deck of a light-beige color. Except for a mainsheet block, it has no other modifications.
If you can hear the water inside the hull, I'd try to get it out. While acknowledging that a stuck Sunfish drain plug can be a difficult fix, "P-B Blaster" is a better choice than WD-40.
If all else fails, a left-hand drill bit of ⅛" diameter can be used to drill a small hole to get P-B Blaster on the remote side of the plug, and then to drain the water out. (A left-hand drill bit could possibly get the plug to withdraw on its own). The plug is brass, so it can be "rescued" for re-use with solder or a bronze brazing.
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Yes, there is a lot of foam back there so it’s hard to get water flow out of a transom drain.The consensus here is, "don't bother".
I only installed one because my Sunfish is stored on a ramp. Still, it took weeks before I could get it to drain beyond a drip, and then later remove the Styrofoam bits that irregularly clogged it.
If yours is stored on a ramp, determine which side your Sunfish prefers to lean, and install it on that side.Guess which side I'd picked?
My dilemma is that boat is now stored at my weekend house, so I am limited in the days/time I have to work on it. If I don’t get the water out today then it is going to sit in there for a minimum of two more weeks, and that is assuming I figure out a way to get it out the next time I am here.The consensus here is, "don't bother".
I only installed one because my Sunfish is stored on a ramp. Still, it took weeks before I could get it to drain beyond a drip, and then later remove the Styrofoam bits that irregularly clogged it.
If yours is stored on a ramp, determine which side your Sunfish prefers to lean, and install it on that side.Guess which side I'd picked?
If the boat has been there for years with water in it, what is two more weeks?My dilemma is that boat is now stored at my weekend house, so I am limited in the days/time I have to work on it. If I don’t get the water out today then it is going to sit in there for a minimum of two more weeks, and that is assuming I figure out a way to get it out the next time I am here.
If I remove the whole drain plug assembly, do I just pry it up using a thin drywall knife or something similar to that?
Thanks. The boat has been under a deck upside down for thirty years probably with some water in it, but not a lot. It is now cleaned up and in a garage when it can have a chance to dry out if I can get the water out. There is more water in there now as a result of washing.If the boat has been there for years with water in it, what is two more weeks?
I think there may be a pin in that metal drain you need to drive out - not sure as my current boat is newer than yours. But there is a way to pry the whole thing out.
Thanks to your advice I have successfully removed the drain assembly and drained the boat! I think the drain is toast due to the level of corrosion, it was never going to open (see below). I think a replacement drain is going to be the way to go. It took just shy of two minutes of a steady stream of water to empty it. The water was basically clear and no debris of any sort came out. I think the mast step is the primary source of water intrusion and will be the first repair before I bother air testing the hull. I will research the best way to seal the mast step, but I am sure I may have some more questions so I will create a new thread when we get to that point. I can’t thank everyone enough for the advice and guidance.Don’t put a drain in the transom! Pry out the deck drain assembly. It is easy. If you google ‘Sunfish deck drain’ you will see a picture I posted on this forum about 3 years ago. Yes, you may need to remove a bit of silicone but just pry the assembly up then grab the two little pins with needle nose plyers and lift. Drain the water out. Reinstall original drain if it frees up after soakng, or just replace it and go sailing
If there’s more water in the hull after washing it then you have a big leak somewhere. You mentioned chips in your mast step. Fill the mast step with water and it should stay full. If it doesn’t you’ve found at least one leak!
I noticed yesterday as I was flushing out the the mast step that the water was not overflowing on to the deck as I would have expected (because it was going into the hullFill the mast tube with water and see how far it drains. Of course, if the problem is at the bottom, it will drain all the way
Nice pictures BTW; it looks like the tube needs lots of TLC
I just ordered the new drain and a new bow handle. The boat is going to have plenty of time to dry out now because realistically it will be quite some time before I get it in the water. I have limited time on the weekends during the summer when I am at the river and have free time to spend on a project like this. Usually there is boating (I have a 21’ Stingray powerboat too), fishing, guests, farmers market with the wife, etc. I will probably take it one step at a time and maybe I can get it on the water in the late summer/early fall. It has been sitting under a deck for 30 years, another few months isn’t going to hurt, but I am excited to get her back in shape.That's a good part for the drain plug.
We just repaired our mast tube with thickened epoxy, applied it with a paint stick. The two brands we use are TotalBoat THIXO or Pettit FLEXPOXY and they are dispensed with a caulk gun. That type of repair has worked on several boats.
Nice choice to have the sail repaired, those are cut from nice fabric. Your 1979 boat should weigh 139 pounds, +5 is not uncommon and not to worry about.
Btw, this is the extra sail I bought. It is a 60th Anniversary North Sail. Thought it was pretty cool, slightly used for $235 + shipping. Condition appears to be excellent.That is a 79. The sail looks almost unused. I wouldn’t get a new one. That grommet may be fine too. Boat looks fantastic!
Since you have already ordered a new sail, if the new one isn’t an authentic Sunfish sail, you’ll probably be able to sell this sail for more than you paid for the new one.
When you repaired your mast step, did you try to pick at the remaining material to see if it would come loose or did you just patch the areas where it was obviously missing? Did you spread a thin coat all the way around the inside? Thx.That's a good part for the drain plug.
We just repaired our mast tube with thickened epoxy, applied it with a paint stick. The two brands we use are TotalBoat THIXO or Pettit FLEXPOXY and they are dispensed with a caulk gun. That type of repair has worked on several boats.
Nice choice to have the sail repaired, those are cut from nice fabric. Your 1979 boat should weigh 139 pounds, +5 is not uncommon and not to worry about.