I got the quick release in and have installed it, but am having the dickens of a time moving the gooseneck (with the quick release in the open position). I've tried tapping it with a little hammer, giving it a wiggle, trying to pry the opening a bit...nothing is helping.
I got the quick release in and have installed it, but am having the dickens of a time moving the gooseneck (with the quick release in the open position). I've tried tapping it with a little hammer, giving it a wiggle, trying to pry the opening a bit...nothing is helping.
Perhaps the underside is corroded and jamming the gooseneck. Use WD-40, PB Blaster, or Kroil (reverse order is better). Using a tack hammer, tap on a tapered punch at the opening—not touching the spar—to widen it gradually, while simultaneously "shocking" the oxidized surfaces.
Each of my used Sunfish had the spar wrapped with electrical tape under the gooseneck. I've continued the practice, but I now seldom move the gooseneck these days.
Additional anti-corrosion lubricants for this job: CRC (a spray), Marvel Mystery Oil (fluid), and ATF (Automatic transmission fluid, which is what Marvel Mystery Oil is—a high-detergent oil—but without the minty scent).
Older goosenecks did not have much space so opening is necessary to get the gap needed for the quick release to work. Cutting, filing, prying, sanding will work.
My boat is only two years old. I tried moving it once last year, and couldn't then, either. I wonder if they cranked down to hard on it, and it's just too tight? Will definitely get hubby on this.
My boat is only two years old. I tried moving it once last year, and couldn't then, either. I wonder if they cranked down too hard on it, and it's just too tight? Will definitely get hubby on this.
1) That's not good news. Aluminum tubing is especially weak to crushing, and the edges can "metal-fatigue" into a fracture. If there's space at the bolt end, try 2), below.
2) Another way to open the gooseneck would be to remove the bolt entirely, then put a special (thin) nut in the gap. Thread a ¼"-20 bolt (of the same length), through the nut downwards and attach another regular nut at the very bottom end. Then turn the thin nut upwards so it bottoms gently against the gooseneck's upper end. Then you can place a Vise-Grip (10) pliers, squeezing the gap and bolt together—expanding the gap until the spar yields. (Whew, that explanation took some time! )
Specialty "thin nuts" are used as lock nuts, and should be available at hardware stores in the ¼"-20 size you need. Check on those made of brass or stainless steel as well—Or, using a brass nut of ¼"-20 size, you can "make one" with a hacksaw.