Terry Ambrose
Senior Member
I am thinking on installing a cleat on my mast, for both the "Jens Rig" and also securing the halyard. Is there a preferred location for the cleat, and what size cleat should I use ? Your input please.
Terry
Terry
Mast Cleat
- Thread starter Terry Ambrose
- Start date
mike4947
Member
The rules give a maximum height and as for the cleat itself there are a multitude of options.
Myself, I've always used a Hobie 16 mast repair cleat kit. Came with the cleat, rivets, and waterproofing cups for the rivets. Caution it does use LARGE rivets and setting them can be a problem. But you'll never have a problem with it coming loose...LOL
Myself, I've always used a Hobie 16 mast repair cleat kit. Came with the cleat, rivets, and waterproofing cups for the rivets. Caution it does use LARGE rivets and setting them can be a problem. But you'll never have a problem with it coming loose...LOL
Tim Polaski
79429
I got the sunfish main halyard cleat from APS and installed it with the fasteners they provided and locktite. Dril the holes slightly smaller than the fastener and they will thread into the softer aluminum mast. I saw some people had jam (clam) cleats on the mast at NA's.
mike4947
Member
Back when I started using cleats I looked at using a clam cleat, but a friend's boat had one and more than once he pulled the halyard loose setting a vang. Just enough angle from the cleat to the deck fairlead to allow the halyard to slip out. The lower the cleat is on the mast the worse the problem is using a clam cleat.
Tim Polaski
79429
Thanks for the info Mike. When I was looking at one boat set up with a clam, I was wondering if that could happen. Just confirmed my suspicions. Horn cleats don't come undone accidentally.
supercub
Member
Terry,
I used a horned 4" cleat (tip to tip measures 4-1/4") that I picked up at one of the Big Box lumber stores, only a couple of bucks. The center is flat (think it is for a flag staff)and I through bolted it, although Stainless Steel Pop Rivets would have been much easier. I useed 3M 5200 as a sealant, just wipe up any squeeze out (5200/4200 can be messy, use plenty of paper towels) before it sets. Do not use a nylon cleat, I had the upper horn break off and dropped the sail about 5" on me. I've mounted mine just short of the maximum allowed in the rules, with the top tip 47" from the mast/cap joint. This spot makes it easy to tie your halyard off and then tie the vang with out struggling. I always have the cleat facing starboard, away from the sail and have lined it up with the rope hole in the mast cap. Next to a Harken block, one of the best upgrades you can do.
I used a horned 4" cleat (tip to tip measures 4-1/4") that I picked up at one of the Big Box lumber stores, only a couple of bucks. The center is flat (think it is for a flag staff)and I through bolted it, although Stainless Steel Pop Rivets would have been much easier. I useed 3M 5200 as a sealant, just wipe up any squeeze out (5200/4200 can be messy, use plenty of paper towels) before it sets. Do not use a nylon cleat, I had the upper horn break off and dropped the sail about 5" on me. I've mounted mine just short of the maximum allowed in the rules, with the top tip 47" from the mast/cap joint. This spot makes it easy to tie your halyard off and then tie the vang with out struggling. I always have the cleat facing starboard, away from the sail and have lined it up with the rope hole in the mast cap. Next to a Harken block, one of the best upgrades you can do.