You're wise to brush-paint the deck. Those "spider cracks" can't be hidden by spray paint--even if you try to hide them with glazing compound.To illustrate the current state
There is some "slop" in the wooden plates that the factory screwed into. When swiveling the hardware, use something like a toothpick to keep the factory's screw holes "in sight".If the fittings that use two screws (which would be a pain to paint around) typically have a nut plate on the back I would be tempted to remove one screw at a time a replace with a dummies that I could paint over. Is that a reasonable assumption?
It has been a fresh water boat all its life the best I can tell and will continue to be. The combing is screwed down, but has also been caulked with an unknown product and has some cracks, so getting it off without damage may be an issue. Its not a glamour boat and I plan to brush paint so masking and leaving most of the attachments in place seems reasonable to just get a sound coat of paint on the deck. If the fittings that use two screws (which would be a pain to paint around) typically have a nut plate on the back I would be tempted to remove one screw at a time a replace with a dummies that I could paint over. Is that a reasonable assumption?
Looks green to me!We recommend sticking with the same line of primer, paint, thinner and fairing compound to avoid incompatibilities, so TotalFair would be the best. It is easy to mix, easy to use and easy to sand. And fun, yellow and blue components make blue, so easy to see if there are any spots of unmixed resin and hardener. Very few, if any, pinholes to have to refill. We've used a lot of it!
LVW just checking to see if anyone paid attentionYes, I should have typed yellow and blue make green.