pez said:Does this mean I have a really Old laser, or that the number under the bow cleat is not the serail number?
Woupld be interested is finding a resource online where I can figure out how old it is... this seems like a beginner question, but I didnt see a FAQ...
any help woupld be appreciated....
SFBayLaser said:sigh.... another missed link on the ILCA-NA web page...
Go to www.laser.org and try the "Questions" section, under "Boat Related" or follow this link . Granted, its concise, but does answer your question...
pez said:Excellent advice, thank you... another friend rcommended running the sail through an industrial sized washing machine with a bit of bleach too. I'm not too sure how I feel about that aside from reservations...
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pez said:If you owned Lasr #1769, what sail number would you use?
Assuming this was your boat, what would the next upgrade be? Everything is still stock in terms of cleats fairlead & such... I was looking at the harken vang asemblies and they seem crazy complicated.
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pez said:1. I read in the class rules that you can't race a boat with a wooden rudder or daggerboard unless they were originally fitted with one. Does this mean that the wooden parts present some sort of advantage?
pez said:2. Usually I sail an hour or two at a time (couple beers in the cockpit etc), the rest of the time the laser is parked at the dock, with the sail on the mast, blowing in the wind. After I'd heard that this makes the sail get old really quickly, we started un-stepping the mast when we were done. Well... do I REALLY need to do this, or is it ok to let the sail blow in the wind for a day?
pez said:3. Ratcheting mainsheet block... My boat doesnt have one, rather the mainsheet block is free spinning... we switched to 7mm line, and it's great, except that after an hour on the water in moderate conditions, my hands are screaming... So I looked into these blocks... and it said it makes it easier to hold the mainsheet... so that means it's just kind of a brake? If so, how does it work when a huge puff comes and you have to ease madly in order to keep from swimming?
pez said:4. Tiller... mine's old, wooden, and nearly shot. In another life, I do some woodworking and such, and looking at this tiller handle and extension, there's not a lot to it. If I build my own and keep it the same as the current one, am I stil sailing a laser?
pez said:And the ratchet block will probabaly be my next purchase... Is harken generally regarded as the best brand? Anyone have a good source for this stuff online? Being landlocked in the midwest, there are no authorized laser dealers within several hours (the one listed On the vangaurd site is no longer carrying sailboat parts).
Thanks again for the advice...
Merrily said:I order stuff from www.apsltd.com The internet shipping is cheep (this for the newbie who is only an egg). Also, if you know the model of block that you want, you can get it from any marine store, such as West, that sells Harken. BTW, I thought Michigan was a Great Lakes state, not the Midwest.
This is my 1000th post. I want virtual confetti!