I think the kit is designed to sell you LOTS of resin. (There's enough resin included to do only the smallest of repairs).I went ahead and bought an exhaust fan to start the drying process.
I have no materials or experience with fiberglass, would this kit have everything I need? Fiberglass Boat Repair Kit - WEST SYSTEM Epoxy
I'm guessing the aluminum plate with the serial number was removed when the previous owner installed the inspection port. Good thing is I can start drying without delay, although I'll probably punch a hole once I can decide where to put the second port,
I'd stay with brass or bronze. At 1/4"-20, it's a very common size. (License-plate attachment size.)Does a replacement need to be brass and any tips on how to get the broken part out?
If SS is used, take care in tightening the locknut. Through normal gooseneck adjustments, the spar (boom) can "shrink" in diameter. Overtightening a SS bolt could result in a terminal gooseneck fracture.If one half of the bronze gooseneck screw is stuck in the threaded portion of the gooseneck, simply drill it out and use a 1/4” SS bolt and locknut instead - 1-1/2” or 1-1/4” should do it.
'Wish I'd known of this.Marine Tex is great for many small hull repairs as the white blends nicely with white gelcoat (you can also tint Marine Tex with pigment). Do make sure you remove any loose gelcoat or fractured fiberglass first, then rough-sand and wipe with acetone before applying the Marine Tex. If you let it begin to set up and then wipe it smooth with a wet finger (soapy water works great!), you can achieve a near perfect shiny finish. Or tape a piece of acetate or wax paper over the repair and smooth it out with a squeegee to get a repair that requires little or no sanding - very small repairs are best done using a razor blade as the application tool.
Gluvit = Good to know.A sister product of Marine Tex is a liquid epoxy sealer called Gluvit that has the consistency of honey and is great for sealing cracks, chips and exposed fiberglass mat anywhere on the hull, especially the inside of the daggerboard trunk and mast step. It retains a bit of flexibility so won’t fracture and break like polyester resin is prone to doing.
Oops...!An experienced Sunfish friend lives near Smith River in the Chicago area, if you could use some fiberglass mentoring.