By Poseidon, you're RIGHT!!!
Those frayed & tattered line ends will be great for fouling blocks, snagging cleats, etc., while the gouges and gelcoat cracks will surely help the boat track or porpoise through the water!!!
WTF was I thinking, offering helpful suggestions to this OP in an open forum???
Meh, ghetto is as ghetto does, I'll bow out with one final suggestion to the OP: if and when ya ever get around to building a boat dolly, be sure to go with the 22" rims & lo-pro tires!!!
CHEERS, AND GOOD LUCK!!!
Super helpful thanks!Team "Sail It" vs Team "Boat Show". We've been on both teamsWhat you have is what our Guru Alan would call a "Beach Banger." My Test Pilot, Skipper and Boat Whisperer says TILEX the hull, fix the rivet, and put some Marine Tex Epoxy Putty of fairing compound where gelcoat has chipped by the metal trim. The weight is awesome for a 1967 boat, you can sail on of those boats without any foam for structure and they sail great, because the woven roving fiberglass those years is almost bomb proof. This 1971 hull had shrunken foam, someone had put some wrong kind of chemical inside, but she sailed smooth.
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So to get in the water you'll need to attach the sails to the spars and get those lines cleaned up. The halyard and mainsheet need to be about 25 feet so give them a measure. Early mainsheets shrunk down to around 22 feet. I would definitely trim the ends and melt or whip. We put a tight wrap of gaff tape around the area to be cut, then cut it, then whip the end with whipping twine 16-20 wraps, then sear the end. Some cord nowadays has an outer shell and inner core, and burning alone may or may not keep the ends together. And nothing makes a boat look nicer than a new set of lines.
If you have the plastic rings for the sail, use those. If not, buy 50 feet of 1/8 inch nylon line marine grade and attach the sail with a marlin hitch. That was an option back then and how we do any new sail on our boats.
As for the hull, it is comprised of a gelcoat skin over GRP (trying to add a Brit term for you). The gelcoat is mostly cosmetic but it also helps protect the GRP underneath. The GRP is a composite made of fiberglass cloth and polyester resin. So when you look at your hull, if you see all the way through the gelcoat to a pancake syrup colored bit of fiberglass, the gelcoat is gone and you are looking at the GRP. Keep an eye on those areas or add back a protective layer of gelcoat (brushed or sprayed) or paint. Your boat has several scrapes that I would leave alone and enjoy the season. If you see GRP and it is clear, then it is okay. If it is cloudy or frayed then it has been crushed or punctured and need repair. If you can see glass fibres fuzzing out, then it needs repair. I'd tend to the area around the bottom of your fiberglass trunk, a quick repair is to sand that area lightly with 120 grit to get rid of loose chips then apply Marine Tex Epoxy putty sparingly. Let it dry then sand smooth. Remember that the daggerboard has to slide through so don't get a big blob on the inside of the trunk. Check out our blog post on Marine Tex and THIXO (thickened epoxy) repairs. (http://smallboatrestoration.blogspot.com/2018/02/1980-amf-sunfish-sugar-2-21-feb-18-hull.html)
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Just a word here for pop-rivets that are missing.Also, I'll take care of that pop rivet asap!