Hull Deck Separation and De-Lamination
- Thread starter reedwhit
- Start date
LooserLu
LooserLu
Hi, a Laserite "Rick" made a nice website (Thanks Rick who ever you are):
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/1340/laser.htm
Ciao
LooserLu
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/1340/laser.htm
Ciao
LooserLu
Thanks for the link Lu. That shows me what a fully separated laser looks like. I was hoping to get some guidance on specifically how to separate the mast insert where is joins the bottom of the hull at the mast step. If the answer is that I need to cut it out of the deck (like when doing a mast step repair), then I think I will just leave it attached and do my best to repair the de-lamination with it attached. I think if I add a couple of inspection ports aft of the cockpit, then I can get access to the deck where it is de-laminated (just on each side of the cockpit where you sit). De-lamination (soft deck syndrome) seems to be a common problem on the more used lasers. If you all think that it is not worth the hassle to try to repair the deck de-lamination then please share. Im tempted just to expoy it together and seal it up the best I can and get to sailing. Every time a breezy day goes by I want to just get it on the water and go.
Thanks for the help. Peace, Reed
Thanks for the help. Peace, Reed
LQT420
Member
I'm looking at a soft spot repair as well. I have a different idea than any that I've seen on this forum as yet that I'd like to share. What do you think? ... I was thinking of cutting two 5" ports on either side of the cockpit walls just below the grab rails. Then proceed to cut out sections of the unattached foam underneath the deck. Flip the boat on a sawhorse hull side up and then use a 4lb density 2 part urethane pour foam (not the weak foam in a can stuff) to fill in the cut out sections. That would also give me full time access to the seating areas to perform delamination repairs under the seating areas over the life of the boat. I've used the 2 part foam to fix loose foam floatation blocks in a Sunfish hull and it works great, strong as hell and it adheres very well. The stuff is available at USComposites.com. Haven't done it yet on my Laser but any comments on my idea would be helpful. Thanks.
LQT420
Member
I'm not sure I follow... so please, correct me if I'm wrong, but my understanding of delamination in a Laser is the separation of the foam core from the fiberglass, ie soft spots - the deck is no longer supported by the layer of foam core. The fix is the removal of the sections of the unattached foam core and replacing it with closed cell adhesive expandable 2-part pour foam, acting as the newly attached foam core.
As far as using inspection ports on the side walls of the cockpit, judging by the interior shots of your boat, the cockpit is supported underneath by its attachment point to the hull. The only concern I would have is stepping through the port by accident when the boat is on an excessive heel.
Again, I haven't made these repairs yet and appreciate your continued thoughts and constructive criticism. Thanks.
- Leon
As far as using inspection ports on the side walls of the cockpit, judging by the interior shots of your boat, the cockpit is supported underneath by its attachment point to the hull. The only concern I would have is stepping through the port by accident when the boat is on an excessive heel.
Again, I haven't made these repairs yet and appreciate your continued thoughts and constructive criticism. Thanks.
- Leon
LooserLu
LooserLu
Hi,
in attachment I have made a sketch that shows areas where inspection ports may be placed, if there is a need for. I hope the experts do agree.
The thin cockpit walls are not made for inspection ports. To add inspection ports at the left or the right of the daggerboard trunk is possible, but the wall of the cockpit is thin there and screws do not hold very good there and the sealing of the inspection port never is durable. Also, that area you always hit with your knees during your sailing, so this areas are not perfect for inspection ports.
All I can say is, that repairing that Laser above is really much work. Also much time, money and a lot of tools (also much clamps and wood for the clamps[ see here: http://www.windline.net/joint.htm ] and special resin and fiberglass and resin for the fiberglass) are needed. You have to separate the mast step at the base carefully and replace the full deck to the hull in one step. The knowledge to re-join the several attachments of the deck to the hull, cockpit-base daggerboard-trunk bailer-area to the hull is described here at TLF in several threads. Search for all of those hints here at TLF before. Don't do the whole work alone, it is nearly impossible.
I remember the words of our expert "gouvernail". In the past he advised to think about to buy a used hull in good condition for less money, than you have to spend for this repair, before you start to buy the tools and the resin etc. At our sailing club, during the time I have been the dude for the boats at the executive board of that club, I retired several of such hulls in reason there is no guarantee such repairs are durable just for one season of sailing, compared to all of the work one has to put in. Local stores for repairs of sailing boats made a pre-bill and never such a bill has been acceptable to the probably expected win for us.
Perhaps think about a nice pool for small fishes at the club, the separated, sealed hull is perfect for that. The deck may be divided in small pieces with a timber-sports "Stihl" chainsaw.
Ciao
LooserLu
P.S.:Softspot repairs are described also at TLF somewhere and here is a small webside that fomer times has been linked to drLaser.org:
http://www.west.net/~lpm/hobie/archives/v1-i5/tip15.htm
in attachment I have made a sketch that shows areas where inspection ports may be placed, if there is a need for. I hope the experts do agree.
The thin cockpit walls are not made for inspection ports. To add inspection ports at the left or the right of the daggerboard trunk is possible, but the wall of the cockpit is thin there and screws do not hold very good there and the sealing of the inspection port never is durable. Also, that area you always hit with your knees during your sailing, so this areas are not perfect for inspection ports.
All I can say is, that repairing that Laser above is really much work. Also much time, money and a lot of tools (also much clamps and wood for the clamps[ see here: http://www.windline.net/joint.htm ] and special resin and fiberglass and resin for the fiberglass) are needed. You have to separate the mast step at the base carefully and replace the full deck to the hull in one step. The knowledge to re-join the several attachments of the deck to the hull, cockpit-base daggerboard-trunk bailer-area to the hull is described here at TLF in several threads. Search for all of those hints here at TLF before. Don't do the whole work alone, it is nearly impossible.
I remember the words of our expert "gouvernail". In the past he advised to think about to buy a used hull in good condition for less money, than you have to spend for this repair, before you start to buy the tools and the resin etc. At our sailing club, during the time I have been the dude for the boats at the executive board of that club, I retired several of such hulls in reason there is no guarantee such repairs are durable just for one season of sailing, compared to all of the work one has to put in. Local stores for repairs of sailing boats made a pre-bill and never such a bill has been acceptable to the probably expected win for us.
Perhaps think about a nice pool for small fishes at the club, the separated, sealed hull is perfect for that. The deck may be divided in small pieces with a timber-sports "Stihl" chainsaw.
Ciao
LooserLu
P.S.:Softspot repairs are described also at TLF somewhere and here is a small webside that fomer times has been linked to drLaser.org:
http://www.west.net/~lpm/hobie/archives/v1-i5/tip15.htm
Attachments
Bungo Pete
Member
FWIW, I would seriously consider writing off this hull. Nothing you do will restore the stiffness of the original deck, and short of cutting it out and professionally recoring, anything you do will add a considerable amount of weight.
Having just made a major repair myself, I realize your desire to bring this boat back to life. Mine was a separation between the cockpit drain and the hull. However, if I had found evidence of deck delamination, I would've broken out the chainsaw.
There are a lot of hulls out there. You'll find one in better shape I'm sure.
Good Luck.
Having just made a major repair myself, I realize your desire to bring this boat back to life. Mine was a separation between the cockpit drain and the hull. However, if I had found evidence of deck delamination, I would've broken out the chainsaw.
There are a lot of hulls out there. You'll find one in better shape I'm sure.
Good Luck.