Yup... already got that handled. It's the forward and back rocking motion from the slop where a 16th of an inch movement forward or back, for a total movement of an 8th inch, translates into a very large movement up and down by the time you are all the way out at the forward end of the tiller.I would check the tiller straps for wear. They do wear and this will lower the tiller handle so it drags on the deck
How common is it for the pin... which I'm assuming is stainless steel... to wear down when the cheek assembly that has the hole is aluminum? Meaning, wouldn't almost all the wear be at the softer aluminum hole?A new pin is $6.50. I'd start from that point and then address
hole size if needed.
Excellent. A bushing is a great idea. Way easier than trying to "fill" and re-drill a new hole.Because if you have brand new pin you know it's to factory spec. so you
have a starting reference. Then you can find or get a bushing made for the hole.
Hi Beldar!Have you tried just tightening the rudder pivot bolt to be a lot tighter?
Oh, boy... worn rudder straps! When I got the boat the rudder straps were a complete disaster. They hadn't been properly lined up with the top edges of the cheeks for some time and as a result had been high point loaded, dented, crushed, etc. So I spent some time filing them down until they had a perfect dog leg match with the top of each rudder cheek.And I concur on worn rudder straps being a problem even with a repaired pintle hole.
So... anyone swapped out a pintle pin? Is there a special tool that really helps? Seems like such a simple process... but not according to my brother in law.
- Andy