I have just purchased a sunfish made is the 70's by viking. When I got the boat home I realized that the mast tube is badly damaged. Large pieces of the fiberglass are missing and it is no longer attached to the bottom of the hull. I was wondering if anyone had any experience or ideas about for repairing this. I was thinking of constructing a new mast tube from aluminum tubing and attaching it at the bottom of the hull over a circular wood disc that fits the inside diameter of the tube. This disc would be glued to the bottom of the hull. I am going to put in an inspection port about 6 inches from the mast tube, but off center since there seems to be a support fore and aft of the mast tube.
My concern with port placement is the deck area perpendicular to centerline at the mast tube supports a portion of the mast's lateral force. Offset at 45º might work better. \ /Here are some drawings of what the situation is. I can't really get very good pictures until I cut the inspection port.
I have no experience working with fiberglass and have no equipment. It sounded kind of expensive to get everything I would need, plus there is no only about 2/3 of the original tube left, hence being able to see the inside of the boat to choose a inspection port location. If that is in fact a better idea, there is some one local who repairs boats, but I would rather do it myself to save some money.
With a fiberglass repair (using either epoxy or polyester resin as the medium), the job is similar to paper-mâché, for big kids. You would wrap resin soaked strips of fiberglass fabric around the existing pieces of the mast tube, using the remaining portions of the tube as your form. Once a new tube has been built in layers the depressions left on the inner diameter by the broken out parts would get filled with a paste of resin and chopped glass fiber.Thanks you guys for your advise. I can already tell you've helped me avoid several mistakes. I will have to read up a little about epoxy, before I try anything. I am open to trying a fiberglass repair, but am not sure how much I would be able to do if there are parts of the original tube missing, and if its not attached at the bottom. Can you use fiberglass to replace missing areas?
I am having a hard time seeing the actual extent of the damage, but will try and get a inspection port soon. If the tube looks similar to the picture you posted, fiberglass may be more doable.
THANKS..., those help to understand your boat's construction much better.Here are some better photos of the mast tube.
I've seen that in other pictures of the Viking.There is also a metal ring that is missing that should be screwed to the mast tube opening, as the manual (not missing) states it to takes strain off the top
It's not clear from the photo, but does it appear the bottom of the mast tube might have been set into a block of dense foam? Laser uses a method something similar to secure their mast tube at its base.One thing that I have noticed while looking at other photos of mast tube repairs is that there is an overhang from the tube opening and the actual tube.
The bottom of the tube is not attached. I also have attached several pictures showing the support post about 6 inches in front of the mast tube.
All the Sunfish look-alikes have subtle and not-so-subtle differences. Your peek into the hull looks like it shows the bottom is entirely covered by a layer of sprayed in foam. It's going to be educational once you get the port installed and have a good look around.Here is a drawing of what I believe the foam blocks are like in this boat. Its a viking, so there are apparently some differences between it and a sunfish.
I was also wondering if I could use the mast a male form/mold to fashion a tube to replace the current mast tube instead of using pipe. If so, do I just wrap the actual mast in plastic wrap or is there something I should coat the mast in?
- i would use the mast itself as the mold and wrap it in a cardboard tube...
- you can make it a little long then use a cardboard mockup to fit in the hull and determine the exact length you need.
- with a little extra effort you can form a flange edge on the end of the tube to attach to the hull and then build wood donuts to fiberglass to the deck and bottom surrounding the new tube.
it won't fit in the dining room?
The back side of fiberglass work never is pretty.I am sure that once I am done, the outside of the tube is going to be one ugly work of art.
Tape ?I purchased some epoxy 105 and some 205 hardener, along with 10 feet of 6" woven fiberglass tape.
A flared fiberglass flange might take care of both needs..., deck repair/reinforcement and connection.My main concern is where the tube attaches to the deck. Most of that area is missing
Better to masking tape over all the broken out sections, otherwise you're liable to drool and puddle resin into the bottom of the tube.I think I an going to center the mast in the tube, while it is wrapped in a bunch of wax paper and then just wrap everything in tape and epoxy.
Get a couple of buddies to help you hold it bow down and shake it. Then lay the hull back down and reach into the bow with a shop-vac.I am not sure what the previous kids did to this boat, but it must have close to a gallon of dirt just rolling around inside.
Also, the inside of the boat is wet, and I don't have a garage to store the boat, so it may be a while until I actually work with the epoxy.
Usually it's the wife and not the dining room that's the problem.
Good choice!The tape is fiberglass fabric, and pretty thick, about as thick as the west marine place had.
Maybe gussett is a more accurate term. The fabric is extremely flexible and will turn the corner to layer onto the underside of the deck.I was wondering what you meant by flange?
Depending on what might be saturated with water inside the hull, it could take weeks before the moisture is gone. I'd leave it in an all-day sun location if possible."...I purchased some epoxy 105 and some 205 hardener, along with 10 feet of 6" woven fiberglass tape...Also, the inside of the boat is wet, and I don't have a garage to store the boat, so it may be a while until I actually work with the epoxy..."