Hi - new member

Thread starter #1
Hi folks, I'm Vic Roy in Baton Rouge, La. and just joined. I bought a 1988 C14.2 model 1 a month or two ago and have been refurbishing it. I'm retired and have had power boats all my life and my flagship is a 1972 Bertram 31 - I'm a lunatic big game fisherman but guess I'm not quite as mad at 'em as I used to be. I keep the fleet (Bertram, 1962 13' Whaler, bought it new, 16' flat for fly fishing, and of course, the Bride's pedal boat) at our weekend place on the Tickfaw River east of Baton Rouge, which is a fresh water tidal river that runs into Lake Maurepas, a large brackish lake that connects to Lake Ponchartrain, the big salt water lake at New Orleans. I will keep the C14 in the water at our dock moored with a line & wieght to keep it centered on two vertical "D" fenders as we have some tide and an occasional flood.

I've just begun to sail her and am learning by reading here and elsewhere and making bonehead mistakes, none of which have yet been too bad. I have a 2 hp two stroke mounted on the transom but am adding a bolt-on motor mount this week as the traveler and main sheet get tangled up in the motor with it on the transom.

The boat was missing its cuddy hatch so I made one from 1/4 plywood encapsulated in epoxy (all of which I had laying around my shop) and put a $5 keyed cupboard latch from Lowe's as the latch - works fine, will probably make a better hatch out of some exotic material like Starboard when this one conks out.

The boom banging around in the boat when the main is down is annoying so I installed a "top haul" that's just a small dacron line up the stb. side of the mast to a small Harken block between the spreadeers and the masthead and back to a strap on the boom. Holds it up just fine, and I've only forgotten to loosen it a couple of times.

The boat had no tie up cleats so I added a pair of small stainless open base ones inside the transom, very low to the seats and they don't seem to attract stray lines, yet. My teak was in terrible shape with peeling varnish so I dug out the plugs covering the screws, removed the three teak peices and sanded them smooth and after using cleaner and bleach, oilled them natural - have a lot of experience with teak over the years and just oil is the best for me & our climate. I re-installed the teak using stainless finishing washers and exposed oval head screws so taking the teak off again to refinish will be a snap.

And I don't have the Brown Bag I see in some pix so right now am using a Lowe's carpenter's apron tied around the base of the mast to stuff the tag ends of the various lines in...crude but us Cajuns have our ways. Any better ideas?

My jib is roller furled so stays on the boat but I take the mail off and store inside. I need your advice on a cover for the main so I can leave it on board. Is it worth it, and any ideas?

Sorry to be so long winded but I'm a retired bank lawyer and trained to use 8 words when one wll do.... & really looking forward to doing a little low-impact sailing.

Nice to meet y'all.

Vic Roy


Sailing on Shelter Bay
Just fine

Sounds like you are doing just fine. Puttering around with rigging and carpentry is enjoyable for me and sounds like it is for you too. Marine hardware is expensive, but ordinary hardware usually corrodes in the marine environment. (I sail on salt water: Puget Sound). If the main sail is new or in excellent shape I would keep storing it at home away from UV, bugs, rainwater, possible rust stains etc. On the other hand a well used sail doesn't require such care because it isn't very valuable. Part of the fun of sailing is learning and figuring out ways to correct problems. I have been sailing and racing dinghys most all of my life and I still learn things. Just today someone suggested I tie the ends of the jib sheets together when I am single- handing so they are easy to locate quickly before tacking. I tried it and I think I like it. You will enjoy sailing. You don't get there as fast as in a powerboat, but speed is relative, and less important for us retired guys.
Thread starter #3
Thanks, Jim. Keeping my boats in a fresh water enviroment is a luxury, nothing much rusts or corrodes. I've had to keep them up in the salt too, and there is a huge difference. I'm a firm convert to Corrosion X which is like WD-40 on steroids. Amazing stuff, penetrates like crazy and prevents corrosion for a long time, plus has a very high lubrication ability vs. most other sprays. I also use Tef-Gel on threads, especially on dissimilar metals such as a stainless screw into aluminum. Its the silveer bullet for that.

My sails are in very good condition and I'll follow your advice and keep the main off the boat. When I put the main on, I first thread the bottom (sorry, I'm not too good at the sailing terms yet) into the boom slot, pull it out with the outhaul, then thread the top into the mast slot and raise it with the halyard. I assume I'm doing this in the correct sequence? The main sometimes hangs up in the mast slot and I'm wondering if I should use some sort of dry lube there, such as silicone spray? I changed all the lines and that helped some, but its still pretty tedious to get the main threaded into the slot while raising the main. without jamming your thumb in the slot, ouch....

Funny your comment on the jib sheet. I bought my boat from a kid who was graduating from LSU here and moving out of town so didn't get much instruction and the jib sheet line was one piece and I didn't know whether to tie the ends to the jib or knot it at the jib and leave the tag ends loose. I asked a lot of people and no one seemed to really know what was best. So I sailed a little with the ends clipped to the jib and the line running through the boat. Of course my fancy Witchard clips I had on the ends clipped to the jib instantly hung up on the shrouds and almost dumped me.....so I settled on just knotting the jib sheet at the jib and running each tag end through the jib cleats and putting a stop knot on the ends. Opposite what you did, but I can go back by just untying the knot. We shall see which one works best for me.

I also learned the boat does not turn very well under outboard power with the centerboard up, in fact, pretty much not at all. I got a few laughs from our neighbors when I was bouncing off the bulkheads trying to dock it the first time......on the other hand, with the centerboard down, the tiller will steer it perfectly with just a whisper of headway, so I can kill the motor a long way from my dock and slide her right into place every time. I'll probably tow her some behind the Bertram 31 out to the big lakes for day sailing and saw a video on youtube about towing the C14 and leaving the centerboard down about 4" to make her track straight. I'll give that a try.

Anyway, nice meeting you and look forward to learning this stuff. I've been retired for about 4 years and can't fathom how I ever had time to work.....



Sailing on Shelter Bay
More random comments and terms

I have put WD40 in the mast slot as far up as I could reach on my larger boats and apparently the sail carried some up to the top (45’) because it always cured the problem of the main sticking in the slot. I am almost certain WD40 would not damage Dacron sails. I see now they actually make a sail track lube.


Regarding Bending (putting on) the mainsail. I looked it up in Sailing Illustrated (by Royce) and he says most people in small boats the head (top) is usually attached to the main halyard and raised first. He says some people (including you and me apparently) prefer to secure the mainsail to the boom first, but that “…is usually the second choice, as more chance of falling into the bilge and/or being walked on” The bottom of the sail is called the foot, BTY.

Thanks for the tip on Corrosion X. I will definitely try that product.

One other thing I thought I would mention:On my new (stiffer) mainsail I discover that if I put an scrap piece of line from the clew (aft lower corner of the sail) and lead it to the outhaul block and back to me where I’m sanding feeding the foot into the slot it makes the job easier. That way I can feed and pull the sail out the boom at the same time. Cheers, Jim
Thread starter #5
Thanks again - you are a good teacher. Great idea on extending the outhaul line, I've struggled with that - seems the loop on the "pull" end is always hidden under the sail folds. And I'll try the WD-40 on the sail slot.

Corrosion X makes some other products (www.corrosionx.com) and the RejeX polymer polish is super stuff, very slick and nothing will stick to it, especailly diesel exhaust. The regular Corrosion X spray in the red can is the cat's meow for everything, including electrical stuff. I call it magic in a can & a little goes a long way due to its extreme "creepy-ness".

Vic Roy
Hi Vic --

Welcome aboard and thanks for the info on the CorrosionX, I've just been using "Blaster" Corrosion Stop, but not long enough to say how well it might hold up. CRC has a Dry Lube that has kept my blocks and cam cleats slippery and is supposed to work on sail tracks but I've been hesitant to put it in contact with sailcloth. Stuff is darned expensive I must say but it is a bear sometimes to get that main raised.

And I like the tip on extending the outhaul, mine is -- just barely -- long enough to reach the cleat on the boom side so now I hava reason to change it out. Jim: do you wrap the excess outhaul line around the boom to keep it out of the way?? My first thought was to do that and tuck the bitter end back under the last loop like a clove hitch.
Thread starter #7
Thanks - the Corrosion X was developed for the aviation industry to treat aluminum airframes against corrosion. It became available to the public about 8 or 10 years ago and I'm a (inactive) pilot and found the stuff work wonders on boats and just about anything that tends to freeze up or corrode. Electrical connections, components, and circuit breakers for example can be revived from the dead with the stuff. You can buy it on line for a little less than most retail outlets.

The Brown Truck brought my outboard bracket today, I bought a Gakelick online vs. the factory one from Catalina and saved about $40. I suspect the factory one is made by Gakelick, just has a black motor pad vs. a white one. Well made, stainless with an injection molded motor pad. Will work fine for my old 2 hp two stroke Mariner and move it about 10" aft of the transom.

I'll install it Friday and try some dry lube on the sail track as well as extend the outhaul line. May look into installing a small cleat to tie off the excess outhaul line....right now Im just weaving it around to keep it out of the way but its hard to deal with that way if you need to adjust the outhaul (assuming I ever get good enough to need to do that).

Another question - I have the whister pole and understand how it is used, but where does one keep it when its not in use? Sure would be nice to have some clips maybe on the front of the mast to snap it into vs. having it underfoot?

Thanks again guys,

Vic Roy
Thread starter #8
The motor mount installed very easily, but since I put it far to the port side (the side with the core in the transom) only the top bolt holes could be thru bolted with 5/16 stainless bolts - the lower two holes fall into the void under the seats, so I used large stainless screws, all bedded in 5200. Works great, gets the motor out ot the way and puts it lower too so it does not cavitate. Excellent addition.

I used a dry silicone spray that I had around the shop on the sail, mast, & boom slots and it made a huge diefference in ease of raising and lowering the main. Turns a chore into a snap. And exteneded the outhaul line and put a Witchard clip on it that snaps into the whisker pole ring on the mast to keep it out of the way.

I added a small cleat on the front of the mast to use for my tophaul line and put it in exactly the wrong spot - the jib sheets hang on it every time I tack, 100% wrong. So I removed it and guess I'll live without it since I have roller furing jib and have an extra cleat on the side of the mast anyway....the enemy of good is better?

And I discovered my bow painter is about a foot too long....it blew off the foredeck and got into the little motor's prop....a mess to untangle and of course it happened at just the wrong time.

And finally, after having the jib sheets hang on the pins and keepers on the stay adjusters a few times, even after some taping, I slit a short length of clear vinyl tubing and slipped if over the shrouds and adjusters and taped it in place. Should eliminate that problem....and I put new 3/8 dacron lines for the jib sheets and its way too heavy - I plan to replace it with much lighter line. Any suggestions?

This sailing reminds me a lot of big game fishing - eliminating ways to screw up.

But finally had a little breeze this morning and had a very fun sail - the boat is quite powerful and very forgiving.

Thanks again guys for the advice.

To cover the shroud plates and pins I got some clear tubing from ace hardware. I forget the size, maybe 1/2 inch? It was not quite big enough to just slip on, perfect for what I wanted. I boiled the ends and stretched them with a cone shape the right size, then with them hot I was able to muscle them down onto the plates, now they are not going anywhere, no need to tape them you can hang on them and try to pull them up and they wont budge. I just took my boat down for the year, and left them on; I just took the pin out that mounts the plate closest to the deck so the tubes will be on the shrouds ready for next year.
Thread starter #10
That's a good idea. I was thinking of using some heat shrink tubing but didn't have the right size with me..... just slide it on and shrink it with an electric heat gun. Most electrical supply houses sell it for real short money and its very handy around a boat. I had some 3/8" clear plain vinyl and had to slit it to get it around the adjusters. Since I got home this afternoon I found a whole bunch of different sizes of vinyl and heat shrink and will do a better job next time over to the boat. Needless to say, avoid the heat shrink with the glue on the inside, you'd never get it off.

I'm beginning to understand why it so important on a sialboat to keep snag & clutter to a minimum. If a line can hang up, it will.

I'm sure y'all all know there is simply no place to put a water bottle or a beer down on the Capri. I had a couple of drink holders with suction cups someone had given me years ago and they work great - stick 'em on the side just above the deck near the transom. I use one for a drink and the other for my gloves, sun screen, etc. Plan to shop for a couple more similar to use on the cuddy hatch for tag ends of lines & stuff.



Sailing on Shelter Bay

This is what I have evolved to for sheets. Jib sheets are red and about 1/4" or 6mm and are the minimum I would use for general purpose. They are red. I like main and jib sheets different distinct colors. My main sheet is blue and about 3/8", 10mm would be slightly heavier. I think 9mm would work fine for that. I purchased these at a surplus marine store when I was in California. www.minneysyachtsurplus.com/
I believe they are like New England Endura Braid and I paid only a few cents/foot. For some reason the Jib sheets feel harder than the mainsheet, but both work well.
Thread starter #12
Thans, Jim - I'm going to change out the jib sheets to 1/4", and understand what you mean about the "hard" and "soft" line - my mian sheet is 3/8 and very "fat & soft" and easy on the nands. The 3/8 jib is just too heavy unless the wind is howling, and in that case ole Uncle Vic's gonna be on the dock sipping a mint julep.

I used to spend a lot of time in SoCal on business and one of my local counsel took me to Minney's once - like a candy store for a boat nut. If the place was around here they'd own me. I almost bought a 6' open array radar antenna there that spun for $15 and was going to put it on top of my boathouse as a conversation piece but shipping costs & the prospect of my Bride's reaction brought me to my senses.

Thread starter #13
Changed out the jib sheets from 3/8 to 1/4 and that made a real big difference - much easier to handle. Yesterday and today was the first time since I've had the Capri that there has been some good wind, we had a cold front pass through. So I sailed her to the edge of turning over and now know what she feels like.....sort of like learning to fly and doing stalls in all sorts of crazy attitudes....scary but you gotta know.

I bought a couple of suction cup trays from West Marine called "cockpit organizers" that are about 11 inches long and a big pair of binocs would fit in them. They fit perfectly on each side of the cuddy hatch and are great for the tag ends of line, sun screen, gloves, etc. Cost about $10 each and a good solution to the Capri's lack of anywhere to put stuff.

The vinyl hose over the shroud adjusters eliminated the jib sheet hang ups. I bought enough 1/4" line to change out the outhaul line to extend it to the mast and put a Witchard clip on the mast end to clip in the whisker pole ring when not in use, and when the outhaul is fully extended you can loop the end around the mast under the boom vang and back to the same line just aft of the outhaul cam cleat so its out of the way again. Nice solution to clutter, which I've discovered is the bane of a sail boat.....and did I mention avoid sandals with velcro?......

I'm enjoying learning.



Sailing on Shelter Bay
cockpit organizers etc...

I like the idea of the organizers and will have to look into that. My GPS usually winds up on the floor after each tack. I'm not thinking of installing a compass somehow, but have not decided the best way to do that. It will have to be where I can read it while solo. I'm sure there are ones made for one-design racers that will work. Perhaps nowadays a digital with large enough number display could just be put on the mast facing back at the crew/skipper.
Thread starter #15
Jim - when I bought the organizers I also got a GPS/cell phone holder that also has suction cups and it works great. All this stuff - the drink holders, organizers, and GPS holder - have suction cups and are made by "BoatMates Marine" and I got them at my local Worst Marine. My Capri had a little Richie compass mounted on the teak above the cuddy hatch when I got it but its location was a magnet for jib sheets and other lines so I took it off. Thought about putting it on the back of the mast but fear with the 1/4" jib sheets that fly around a good bit when tacking it would tangle there too. I'm thinking about a flush mount compass that I could fasten to (or through) the plywood cuddy door I built as I'd hate to cut a hole in the glass for one. I may just pass by Pep Boys and see what they have in the cheapie car compass dept. - seems like I saw a little surface mount stick on digital LCD one there for short money. I stuck the little Richie & its mounting screw in the boat's waterproof tool box so I at least have one on board if I have one beer too many and decide to cross the Gulf of Mexico.....