Thanks. I've been reading about that, but I'm wondering if my idea would work because it seems to me it would be a lot less work, plus I already have the epoxy.
If there are hairline cracks in the hull, do these HAVE to be repaired? I'll be taking the boat out of the water after each use, and storing inside. I was always under the impression (from fiberglass kayak experience) that hairline cracks didn't really pose a problem.
If they really need to be fixed to keep the boat from absorbing water, can I just sand the whole thing and roll a layer of epoxy over everything? I built a cedar strip kayak so I have glass and epoxy experience, but I don't have gelcoat experience. I also have epoxy on hand. I figure for the hull, if I have to do something about hairline cracks it would be a simple matter for me to just sand the whole hull, roll a layer of epoxy over the whole thing, and after that cures I'd just paint it with a high quality white paint. Does anyone see problems with that approach?
One other thing, I took the coaming (splashguard) off to repair a crack in it. It looks like each of the screw holes has a drywall anchor in it. Were these boats built with these in them, or is it more likely someone had screws tear out and didn't know about sealing the holes with epoxy and then re-drilling (or maybe they found the backer blocks were rotted)
My plan is to get these anchors out of there (drilling if I have to) and then epoxying the holes and re-drilling them. Hopefully, the wood backer blocks are solid.
Thanks for any help you can provide.
The fasteners should be Bronze machine anchors cinched in at the factory.
Thanks. I know that epoxy sticks very well to gelcoat if it's been sanded first. My thinking is if I roll a coat of epoxy on it would give me a thin, unbroken barrier across the entire hull. It wouldn't matter if it actually penetrated the hairline cracks. That's my theory, anyway. Since I have no experience with gelcoat I figured I'd ask here before attempting it.
Good to hear about the hairline cracks not necessarily needing to be fixed. Very good to hear.
I haven't weighed the hull yet. Seems kind of heavy, but I don't know what 130 pounds should feel like. I'm used to 40# kayaks. I'm betting it's heavier than it should be. I don't think I could lift it completely off the ground by myself. Lifting one end doesn't seem too bad.
I'll try the bathroom scale thing as soon as I get somebody over to help me lift it down off the sawhorses I have it on.
…there are clusters of hairline cracks here and there on the deck … If there are hairline cracks in the hull, do these HAVE to be repaired?
The other cause of gelcoat cracking is impact. This is usually evidenced by a concentric ring pattern ((( ))) as opposed to random criss-cross spider webbing. In this case the cracks need to be examined closely, even chipped away at, to see if they extend through the gelcoat’s 0.020” thickness to the structural fabric layers. If the gelcoat has broken through, the damaged area needs to be sanded down and a new gelcoat layer applied. You’ll be lucky if the gelcoat is all that’s damaged in this instance. Frequently sanding reveals damaged fiberglass that also needs some repair.If they really need to be fixed to keep the boat from absorbing water, can I just sand the whole thing and roll a layer of epoxy over everything?
Similar to transparent epoxy in application, but different enough you need to read up and practice a little to learn the differences in material behavior.I built a cedar strip kayak so I have glass and epoxy experience, but I don't have gelcoat experience.
I guess you could do that, I’ve never tried transparent epoxy as an undercoat. The same Interlux, Awlgrip, and the like polyurethanes favored for kayaks and canoes are preferred for Sunfish as well.I also have epoxy on hand. I figure for the hull, if I have to do something about hairline cracks it would be a simple matter for me to just sand the whole hull, roll a layer of epoxy over the whole thing, and after that cures I'd just paint it with a high quality white paint.
The anchors were factory, at least the factory used anchors at one time, yours could be owner installed. Can’t say for sure which without a picture. The factory also put a vinyl gasket between the coaming and deck for a period. This often deteriorated into crumbles leaving the coaming loose or, as in my case, it turned into something resembling a layer of hardened plumber’s putty that required careful knife work to remove. Either way, a bead of marine caulk seals the coaming nicely nowadays.One other thing, I took the coaming (splashguard) off to repair a crack in it. It looks like each of the screw holes has a drywall anchor in it. … My plan is to get these anchors out of there (drilling if I have to) and then epoxying the holes and re-drilling them. Hopefully, the wood backer blocks are solid.