Bought a laser with damage to the gunnel on the aft right corner. I'm rebuilding the corner with layers and layers of glass. My question is.... Is gel coat required over the glass or can the glass be primed and painted as it is topside? And. Can the topside be repainted with out too much (or any) sanding that would reduce the textured deck surface.
Gel Coat
- Thread starter knoel
- Start date
49208
Tentmaker
When new, the hull and deck are both gelcoated - no paint...
In a repair, you can certainly paint it if you choose. Most paints will adhere w/o problems to prepared 'glass - a wipedown with acetone on polyester resin or with soapy water on epoxy resin and you are good to go.
Any sanding on the deck is going to reduce the textured surface.
In a repair, you can certainly paint it if you choose. Most paints will adhere w/o problems to prepared 'glass - a wipedown with acetone on polyester resin or with soapy water on epoxy resin and you are good to go.
Any sanding on the deck is going to reduce the textured surface.
Merrily
Administrator
Is your topside painted? They are not on a from the factory boat. It is gel coat too, unless someone has painted it since.
The boat has never been painted. I want to paint the entire boat once repairs are complete as the damged area is too large to try to hide with a gelcoat repair (patch). I'm cosmetically anal about appearance otherwise I would just patch the gelcoat and be done with it. Thanks for your reply.
Hey,
I think it is imperative that you Gel Coat over the Glass, or a layer of pure epoxy to seal the glass. Here is my reasoning -
The layers of glass have little glass 'hairs' poking out of them. These 'hairs' behave like little candle wicks and will suck up water and eventually rot the repair. I think that you can sand the glass repair and then paint over a good layer of epoxy, it should take care of the 'hairs'.
Gelcoat just looks a little cleaner.
I don't have anything to offer on the painting front.
Matt
I think it is imperative that you Gel Coat over the Glass, or a layer of pure epoxy to seal the glass. Here is my reasoning -
The layers of glass have little glass 'hairs' poking out of them. These 'hairs' behave like little candle wicks and will suck up water and eventually rot the repair. I think that you can sand the glass repair and then paint over a good layer of epoxy, it should take care of the 'hairs'.
Gelcoat just looks a little cleaner.
I don't have anything to offer on the painting front.
Matt
sailorsteven
New Member
If you're going to paint the boat the entire thing will need to be lightly sanded to get the paint to adhere. 150 or 220 grit works the best. Next, you will have to wipe it down with acetone or a fiberglass cleaner such as the interlux fiberglass prep solvent. After that you are ready to prime. I have used the interlux product before and have had good luck. For the hull I would recommend interlux brightside and you can also use it on the deck and ad the interdeck for a sweet non-skid surface. You don't need to sand between coats. For a great smooth look go with a roll and tip method were you roll on the paint and then use a really nice paintbrush to tip the paint in one direction. Despite my age I work at a boat supply store and have vast knowledge of painting products and have also completely restored a dinghy from the 70s. There is a good video on rolling and tipping on the interlux website and good product descriptions. Best of luck. Email me if you need any other advice on the painting front. 
49208
Tentmaker
Depending on the age and condition of the deck, you may be able to get by without sanding. The older and more weathered, the less likely you would need to do it, as mother nature would have done it for you. You will need to to wipe down the deck. If the deck is still in pristine condition, I think you will need to scuff it a bit
I wouldn't use sandpaper on the deck - it's never going to get to the low spots on the non-skid pattern.
If you have to paint the deck, I would recommend wool pads http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/search_subCategory.do?categoryName=Sanding%20Accessories&categoryId=24&refine=1&page=GRID
followed by a good wipedown with the above mentioned products.
I understand about wanting it to look good, but IMHO, the deck is subject to a lot of wear and tear, especially where you sit and the paint is just going to wear off fairly quickly in those areas... I'd be more inclined to spend the money getting someone to color match the repaired area in gel-coat.
I wouldn't use sandpaper on the deck - it's never going to get to the low spots on the non-skid pattern.
If you have to paint the deck, I would recommend wool pads http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/search_subCategory.do?categoryName=Sanding%20Accessories&categoryId=24&refine=1&page=GRID
followed by a good wipedown with the above mentioned products.
I understand about wanting it to look good, but IMHO, the deck is subject to a lot of wear and tear, especially where you sit and the paint is just going to wear off fairly quickly in those areas... I'd be more inclined to spend the money getting someone to color match the repaired area in gel-coat.
The deck does look pretty good after cleaning and I've been thinking about painting the hull only. Can the fade in the gel coat be matched (flat/dull) or can I apply something to the deck that would match new gel coat (sheen)? If I can diguise the body work I'm more inclined ot do that. Thanks.
49208
Tentmaker
Gel coat can be as shiny or dull as you like when new or old - it's a matter of how smooth the finish is (ie sand it with 1200, polish etc) and if it's waxed after that or not
How about a 'go-fast stripe' in a suitable contrasting shade across the stern wher you have made the repair? some European boates seem to have a painted stripe on the rear deck (perhaps to infuriate followers and show they are sailing flatter)
All down to aesthetics but some people actually ad stripes to the sides and deck.
All down to aesthetics but some people actually ad stripes to the sides and deck.
If you're going to paint the boat the entire thing will need to be lightly sanded to get the paint to adhere. 150 or 220 grit works the best. Next, you will have to wipe it down with acetone or a fiberglass cleaner such as the interlux fiberglass prep solvent. After that you are ready to prime. I have used the interlux product before and have had good luck. For the hull I would recommend interlux brightside and you can also use it on the deck and ad the interdeck for a sweet non-skid surface. You don't need to sand between coats. For a great smooth look go with a roll and tip method were you roll on the paint and then use a really nice paintbrush to tip the paint in one direction. Despite my age I work at a boat supply store and have vast knowledge of painting products and have also completely restored a dinghy from the 70s. There is a good video on rolling and tipping on the interlux website and good product descriptions. Best of luck. Email me if you need any other advice on the painting front.
Thanks for your assistance and your invitation for further advice. I've completed all the glass work as well as prep for painting. I have the hull primed with Interlux epoxy primer and I'll apply Perfection tonight. the question i have is whether I can get away without priming topside. I don't want to "fill" the non-skid surface with primer and paint. I recollect someone saying that an 1984 boat should be weathered enough that priming may not be necessary. I did purchase the Interlux non-skid additive for the Perfection paint. What are your thoughts?
sailchris
Member
That's going to be one HEAVY boat when you are done. You may want to install an outboard mount on the stern before you finish the work. Seriously, you should have just covered your repair with a nice smooth coat of gelcoat and left the rest of the hull alone except for some light polishing with rubbing compound and Teflon.
LQT420
Member
If possible, would you be able to post photos of your completed project? I'm contemplating the same repairs and finish job to my old hull. Thanks.
sailchris
Member
I guess you are right about the weight...not much difference in a old boat anyway. Wouldn't a small gelcoat repair have been simpler than painting the entire hull and deck of an otherwise fine boat? And isn't gelcoat harder and more durable in the long run than paint (I don't have much experience with epoxy paints)?
I guess I don't care much about the cosmetic appearance of a Laser because it is really just a racing machine anyway. The bottom of my boat has many small gelcoat repairs of scratches and gouges that are whiter than the surrounding gelcoat, but they are smooth, which is what I think matters.
<sarcasm> Oh, and when you have finished restoring your classic yacht, I recommend sufficient "hosepower[sic]" to supply the required libations to the cockpit...perhaps one beer hose, one rum hose, and a gin and tonic hose would be sufficient.
</sarcasm>Sorry Sailchris, I have to disagree here. Admittedly I'm a "mid to back of the fleet" sailor anyway, but I have never thought of the laser as "just a racing machine". Ever since I first saw one about 30 years ago, I always thought the laser was the prettiest looking small sailboat I'd ever seen. Even with dings, I think they still look great as well as being so much fun to sail. Sorry to go off-topic.
Knoel, best wishes with your restoration, and I hope it's not too long before you can experience the joys of laser sailing.
Regards,
Peter (still in love with his Laser)
sailchris
Member
I didn't mean to imply that I don't appreciate the way a Laser looks, just that, for me, keeping the boat in racing condition is more about smooth, fair, watertight repairs than improving the cosmetic appearance of the boat.
Once went to the trouble (and expense) of getting a professionally colour matched polyurethane mix to patch a few cosmetic areas on a Laser hull. Before I got around to doing the job (waiting for high enough temperatures in the garage because I have been banned from repairs in the lounge room) I spotted a spray can in a local hardware outlet with what seemed an exact match.
Bought a can on spec and found it an exact match! Can patch small scrapes quickly and although its an acrylic based paint it seems very durable and buffs to a good finish.
Bought a can on spec and found it an exact match! Can patch small scrapes quickly and although its an acrylic based paint it seems very durable and buffs to a good finish.