I use two flat head screwdrivers to pry them open, giving equal pressure on both sides. I think one of those tools used to pry open gardeners on automobile trim would also be perfect, if you have that. They have a short two pronged end that would slide in between and also exert equal pressure on both sides of the clip.The rings are supposed to be difficult to open. I’ve opened old ones with no problem - just a lot of frustration - with no breakage as they seem to have some nylon or something flexible in the plastic. But that is no guarantee that it’ll work for you. But you can always buy new ones.
If the sail is worth saving, a tiny amount of epoxy brushed around worn grommets would keep the unraveling to a minimum. (Super-glue might be better--and easier).On a different topic, the sail material around the grommets is fraying. Any thoughts on how to stabilize the material. Lastly, on a more trivial note, the rings that secure the sail to the booms are difficult to open. Will they break if I force them? Thanks in advance.
Wow. Some great thoughts. That does sound like a lot of grinding. Thanks for the ratio. Hopefully, I won't have to make a hole, which leaves me a lot of negative space to free form. Yup, the form is the tricky part for sure. Perhaps, I could build it out in layers. Do you use fabric or some sort of fiberglass reinforcing? Maybe a wood form I glue to the underside of the prow, then build up.I am a bit further along in my learning then you are at this point. Keep in mind I am just learning as I go here and this is the best advice I have found so far.
I was just doing some work on my practice hull. I have to repair a section of the keel which only had a crack. Now it has a 2" hole once I got it past the fractured stuff. I also have an area on the chine (where the hull does the 90 degree up the side) which ground out to be about 6" by 2" open area.
You need to grind back 12 to 1 for the thickness, basically 12 times the thickness of the fiberglass or so. I started with a 80 grit on a 5" random orbital. It can take off a lot, but I ended up with 80 grit flap disk on a 4" grinder to cut areas down faster then level with 80 on the RO.
That has got me to where I am trying to figure out how to make up backing pieces to do blind backing of the holes. The keel I figured out pretty easy. The side corner is bit more as it has a compound curve and I have to really fold up the paper to get it in the hole. I have to find the video where a guy was doing the same thing and try to sort out what kind of cardboard he used.
I am doing it all in laminating polyester resin per the recommendation of a long time fiberglass guy in my yacht club. The problem with epoxy is you can not do poly over it and it is more costly. The polyester might be better when on the learning curve of things. But it also depends on what you need to get done. For all the work I am doing the poly is the better choice over all.
Repairing and sanding at a crack (in roving) will normally result in a 2-inch hole (or much larger). Damaged fiberglass roving keeps collapsing, as you sand away.I am a bit further along in my learning then you are at this point. Keep in mind I am just learning as I go here and this is the best advice I have found so far.
I was just doing some work on my practice hull. I have to repair a section of the keel which only had a crack. Now it has a 2" hole once I got it past the fractured stuff. I also have an area on the chine (where the hull does the 90 degree up the side) which ground out to be about 6" by 2" open area.
You need to grind back 12 to 1 for the thickness, basically 12 times the thickness of the fiberglass or so. I started with a 80 grit on a 5" random orbital. It can take off a lot, but I ended up with 80 grit flap disk on a 4" grinder to cut areas down faster then level with 80 on the RO.
That has got me to where I am trying to figure out how to make up backing pieces to do blind backing of the holes. The keel I figured out pretty easy. The side corner is bit more as it has a compound curve and I have to really fold up the paper to get it in the hole. I have to find the video where a guy was doing the same thing and try to sort out what kind of cardboard he used.
I am doing it all in laminating polyester resin per the recommendation of a long time fiberglass guy in my yacht club. The problem with epoxy is you can not do poly over it and it is more costly. The polyester might be better when on the learning curve of things. But it also depends on what you need to get done. For all the work I am doing the poly is the better choice over all.
More back story:The rings are supposed to be difficult to open. I’ve opened old ones with no problem - just a lot of frustration - with no breakage as they seem to have some nylon or something flexible in the plastic. But that is no guarantee that it’ll work for you. But you can always buy new ones.
Hmmm, your advice is giving my some hesitation, which is perhaps the best advice. The hull looks watertight, so it's really just bow that I'm thinking of repairing. So from the pictures do you think that as I grind back the damage, I will likely punch a hole through the fiberglass? I think the damage is largely aesthetic, do you think it will get worse? I'm pretty patient so I think I can do what needs to be done, but don't want to take the risk of compromising the hull integrity then repairing it back, if I don't have to.Repairing and sanding at a crack (in roving) will normally result in a 2-inch hole (or much larger). Damaged fiberglass roving keeps collapsing, as you sand away.
I used a section of a Tornado [catamaran] sail batten, wetted it, added matt, and made a wooden "bridge" over the hole. I pulled the batten up with wire, and repaired the keel from there.
Since my Sunfish keel continues to take a lot of grief from pulling up upon a wooden ramp, I ran a 4-foot strip of 4" fiberglass "tape" over the damaged area, but probably should have made it longer yet.
The top photo is damage from winter's wind tossing my Sunfish against a dock upright. The second photo was a damaged Sunfish keel—as received from a seller.
That makes complete sense. I'll give that a whirl. Thanks for pulling that thread.More back story:
An easy way to remove sail attachment clips
Here is an easy way to remove sail attachment clips without damaging the clips, sail or grommets without special tools. As shown in the photos, grasp the clip with a pair of (preferably dull!) wire cutters. Squeeze the wire cutters tight enough to touch the sides of the plastic stud but not...sailingforums.com
I found a possible "bridge" for next time.I used a section of a Tornado [catamaran] sail batten, wetted it, added matt, and made a wooden "bridge" over the hole. I pulled the batten up with wire, and repaired the keel from there.
Since my Sunfish keel continues to take a lot of grief from pulling up upon a wooden ramp, I ran a 4-foot strip of 4" fiberglass "tape" over the damaged area, but probably should have made it longer yet.
The top photo is damage from winter's wind tossing my Sunfish against a dock upright. The second photo was a damaged Sunfish keel—as received from a seller.
Cool. I don't see a link, though.Speaking of grommets, I passed by a Harbor Freight store today, and spotted this
$5 aluminum grommet repair set.
Close, it's on the same page!Is this the item?
Great pic.Photo of Sunfish "roving"...the back side, not usually visible to the casual observer:
View attachment 42304
...and why you can't sand very deeply into it!