There's an old axiom that states, "Never approach the dock faster than you are willing to hit it."I am trying to come up with tips for launching and returning to a boat dock rather than a beach. Does anyone have pointers on raising and lowering the sail while in the boat ? And where u would suggest to put a stern line ?
Due to the rules of geometry, this idea will not work. Try it and see.If you usually hoist the sail and tie it off on the on a mast cleat, I would probably try putting a loop in the halyard so I could raise the sail.
This is what I usually do. Only when the wind is from a very unfavorable direction do I lower the sail prior to docking.Due to the rules of geometry, this idea will not work. Try it and see.
I suggest getting in the boat with it tied to the dock, hoisting the sail, and pushing off. Much easier than drifting loose trying to hoist the sail. ALWAYS launch and return on the lee side of the dock.
I have a shoreline of trees, which makes "drifting loose" my only option. I push away sideways with the daggerboard,I suggest getting in the boat with it tied to the dock, hoisting the sail, and pushing off. Much easier than drifting loose trying to hoist the sail.
I rather use a Praddle or a Paddle Handdaggerboard makes for an excellent paddle....easy to store on the boat as well
I rather use a Praddle or a Paddle Hand
www.intensitysails.com/
I use AmSteel Blue for my halyard; it's pretty slippery.Although I bought the recommended halyard line, I'm trying out a heavier, thicker line for the halyard. One shortcoming of the construction (braided/ not-nylon), is that it bindsat both the deck fairlead and mast-top guide. (Not to mention the usual gooseneck drag). This has been temporarily fixed with three gobs of Vasolene, which seems to have "slicked-up" the operation of the two plastic parts and the usual gooseneck's friction with the aluminum mast.
I use AmSteel Blue for my halyard; it's pretty slippery.
Moreover, I would hate to get Vaseline on my halyard!
PS: This conversation has drifted far away from Luffing Lassie's dock
A seacoast sailing friend suggested a different knot at the upper spar. It's just a bowline with about an 18-inch circumference, but wrapped within itself three times around the spar (symmetrically) before threading the loose end through it. It hasn't budged on the spar, and allows a very satisfying tight fit between the upper spar and mast while sailing. Loosened slightly, the completed knot can be readily moved up or down the spar, yet grabs readily when put back into service. I'll get a photo of it—simple, yet effective.
Nice looking boat!I have a shoreline of trees, which makes "drifting loose" my only option. I push away sideways with the daggerboard,
install it when the movement slows, and reach for the halyard. I've drilled the splashboard for a hole, lengthened the halyard, and installed a cam cleat on the deck. (See white arrow). Before you shove off, check that the mast is aligned with the halyard, that you have retained the daggerboard,and that your mainsheet hasn't tangled with the rudder or tiller. Allow yourself about 100-feet of leeward drift, and you should be good-to-go.
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"...I would hate to get Vaseline on my halyard...!
If anyone races, you should know the fairlead with the metal insert is illegalfor racing .
Fumbling through my marine hardware box yesterday, I discovered one solution to the halyard friction problem. Too bad I can't reach the old fairlead!
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Having never replaced one, it's probably only screws that hold it to a backing plate, and the job can be done without a inspection port being handy.Too bad I can't reach the old fairlead!
I didn't know that, but I understand the reasons for keeping the boats "equal" for racing.If anyone races, you should know the fairlead with the metal insert is illegal for racing .