When a plastic bailer fails, I replace it with a 1¼" automotive "freeze plug", mounted with the larger washer inboard. ($6 at NAPA).
I'm not sure what is meant here by a "1 1/4 inch automotive freeze plug?" I'm conjuring a freeze-out plug for an engine block but I doubt that what is being referred to here.When a plastic bailer fails, I replace it with a 1¼" automotive "freeze plug", mounted with the larger washer inboard. ($6 at NAPA).
If I had your recurring problem, I'd pull off about ten inches of 2" white Gorilla tape, punch a hole through it, and wrap the offending plastic part lengthwise to make a tape "sandwich". Where the sharp bend occurs, the tape can be wrapped around a ¼" wooden dowel or a pencil fragment to keep the end handy and off the cockpit floor.
Just a thought.
Here's what I'm picturing (attached). As a long-time gear-head, this is what has always been known to me as a "freeze-out plug" -- no way that's what is being referred to here. I'm lost.You're right.
It's as you describe for automobile engine blocks, but it's an expanding plug with a large rubber seal that fits leak-free when tightened in place. The larger metal washer (of the two) goes inside the cockpit.
It can be a temporary fix indefinitely for ~$7.
Got it! Thanks! 1 1/4" (1.25 inches) - right?
Will do. How is the functionality with the auto parts plug? I've seen them in plumbing/pool applications with a wing nut, does that seems like a better choice?That's my recollection: best to measure.