Would you first please let us know which of the daggerboard designs you've chosen for your pattern.I just bought a sunfish and am missing the daggerboard. I'm making one per forum's specs but the specs do not tell you what the radius size of the leading and trailing edges are.
... the specs do not tell you what the radius size of the leading and trailing edges are.
1/2 D which is = to the board's thickness, right?
I figured on ... a 6 1/2 degree angle for the 1 1/4 dimension.
You can angle this however much you want up to 17*, beyond which you shorten the 1-1/4" dimension..., which is ok too, just less of a taper. Don't make a razor sharp point, it'll just ding up too easily.
What are the handle bolt sizes and spacing?
Originally brass wood screws, use any reasonable size as replacements..., stainless steel works too. Space them evenly at the ends, but note the slight off-set per side so they don't interfer with each other
I would only replicate the composite or the Barrington no matter what year Sunfish I owned, except if I had a pre-'72 and wanted to retain the classic style. The "Shadow" style was ruled a poor design and superceded by the Barrington.I'm thinking about asking a carpenter friend of mine to make a new daggerboard for my sunfish... Is there an advantage to any of the styles? My current daggerboard is the Barrington Style.
That's what I'd do if you don't have budget constraints to pick up the composite board too.Would it be better to have a new wooden one made in the same style as the old and get a second polymer daggerboard for racing?
I'd personally just use a router and make a relief to my own liking rather than fool with being exact in duplicating the original. I switched to the composite and don't have a wood one to measuer, but eyeballing it I'd say 1/2 way up the 1" face.How high does the radius go?
That's by the setup manual. We've debated the pros and cons (when no difinitive taper has been added) and some people like it the other way around. An original board is radiused on both edges..., no taper. The taper is an allowance in the racing rules and the owner adds it to their liking. Try it both ways before you taper one edge to be the trailing edge.Your pic shows the 9 1/2 -8 1/2 taper side goes towards the bow. I thought the straight side did.
Just Google up Laser Performance (the Sunfish builder). They have a dealer finder.Sounds good Wayne, Thanks. As for finding a dealer, I'll have to look around to find one. Are there any databases of sunfish dealers?
Okay so I have a roughed in shaped barrington style board. I'm thinking on modifying it to the race version.
What size radius is the leading edge?
The big radius is towards the front (bow)correct?
The foil profile is thinnest at the front(bow) and gets thiucker towards the rear(aft)?
Quality topside coatings work for trailered boats. The "below the waterline" precaution is aimed more toward boats that are moored all season.Thx Wayne for all the info. I read somewhere that Interlux is prefered for the finish. Which one? Everything in the West Marine catalog says not for underwater use.
There you go, you're all set then.They paint the waterline stripe with Interlux Brightside.
Is there any reason not to make the new racing style daggerboard out of wood?
There aren’t any repairs in there- yet. Actually have to make some this week. I’m just going to sand one side of the board down maybe 1-2/16 an inFirst check the daggerboard trunk to see if there is a repair in there with extra epoxy. Sand that down if there is. Otherwise sand your board down, start with the areas that are scraping, you may not need to sand the enite board.
please elaborate, what is “Cup”Check for “Cup”
"Cup" is a warp of the board.There aren’t any repairs in there- yet. Actually have to make some this week. I’m just going to sand one side of the board down maybe 1-2/16 an in please elaborate, what is “Cup”