Got a Flickr or PhotoBucket account? Just click the Insert Image iconI'll post a picture as soon as I can figure out how.
Hull separation would be way extreme. Your first idea is more along the lines of what the fiberglass repair books walk you through.I intend to repair it by grinding the fiberglass down about 3/16" along most of the keel from the dagger board aft, filling it with several layers of graphite cloth and epoxy and then grinding it smooth.
I have considered trying to separate the top of the boat from the bottom but figure this may be a bit extreme.
Get some pictures posted and let's have a look at what you are dealing with.That's my intent at any rate, but I wanted to see if those on this forum more knowledgable than I might have a better approach.
A supply of expensive, high-tech fabric, lucky you.The only reason I mentioned graphite is I have a supply of it and don't have any fiberglass at present.
Does your model have the storage cubby?Can this area be reached through the well - i.e. cut out part of the well, make the repairs to the hull and then repair the bottom of the well? How else would one proceed?
First of all, Apologies !!As it turns out the main crack forward of the self-bailer lies completely under the foot well. If, as you say, I have an inch clearance at the middle of the boat I'm thinking of trying to cut maybe a 3 or 4" strip out of the bottom of the well with a straight bit in a router set just deep enough for the thickness of the well. Think that would work?
The theory sounds workable. Major hull failure under the cockpit is about the most difficult to work on.I think I'll try removing the strip, adding a couple layers of glass/epoxy on the inside of the crack then epoxying into place a piece of PVC sized to bridge the keel or skeg and be a point of bearing for the replaced strip of the cockpit bottom. Naturally the replaced piece of cockpit bottom would be glass/epoxied back into place. Sounds workable to me. What do you guys think?
I appreciate your input Wayne. It and the pictures have been very helpful. You obviously have a lot of Sunfish under your belt.
I'll take pictures of my work and post them.
One last question if you don't mind. As you might have noticed in my pictures the self-bailer is the original aluminum one. I would like to replace it with a newer one and now seems as good a time as any to do this. How does one remove the old one? It appears the only way is to grind to old aluminum off on the inside. Is that the way, or is there a better one?