hydroslyder
Member
I am about to replace both of my grab rails, and I was wondering if there is anything special I need to know before I do this, it seems pretty simple but I just want to make sure.
thanks
Chris
thanks
Chris
Cockpit Grab Rails
- Thread starter hydroslyder
- Start date
computeroman2
Member
If they are the old wooden ones, I would sand/varnish them before putting them back on. Also, make sure to seal all of the holes with a good glob of silicone sealer or marine 5200 right before you put them in.
hydroslyder
Member
No they are the standard plastic ones, mine are just cracked and I tore one off on a roll jibe gone bad but the screw holes didn't strip out.
Seem to remember an article on Shevey's old site that cautioned dislodging plastic inserts used in some Lasers inside the cockpit wall.
Your boat may not have/need these - but if it does and they are damaged or missing, maybe you can get some replacements from a dealer - or advice on suitable nylon wall plugs as a substitute. (installing these without inspection ports or very long arms might still be a challenge)
If not obvious from visual inspection or if in doubt about how much reinforcement lies behind the screw hole probably best to check whether nylon baking 'wall plug' type inserts were used on your series hull.
Some have suggested using foam sponge saturated in resin and poked thru the screw hole to cure - then the excess is trimmed off and the screw hole re-drilled.
Would certainly use silicone sealant when refastening the rails, particularly if you use them insted of the toestrap in marginal conditions.
Best to ask the dealer you get the replacement rails from for advice for your boat number.
GL
Your boat may not have/need these - but if it does and they are damaged or missing, maybe you can get some replacements from a dealer - or advice on suitable nylon wall plugs as a substitute. (installing these without inspection ports or very long arms might still be a challenge)
If not obvious from visual inspection or if in doubt about how much reinforcement lies behind the screw hole probably best to check whether nylon baking 'wall plug' type inserts were used on your series hull.
Some have suggested using foam sponge saturated in resin and poked thru the screw hole to cure - then the excess is trimmed off and the screw hole re-drilled.
Would certainly use silicone sealant when refastening the rails, particularly if you use them insted of the toestrap in marginal conditions.
Best to ask the dealer you get the replacement rails from for advice for your boat number.
GL
computeroman2
Member
If the screw didn't strip out, just fill the holes with silicone and screw the new ones in. Should be simple as that.
gouvernail
Super Opinionated and Always Correct
This is a second try. Just as I finished typing, a lightning blast fried my surge protector. But it saved the computer so I guess I won't mind spending money on a new surge protector.
Rails... Here is what I did the day I got my last Vanguard new boat.
1. Traced around the rails with a pencil
2. Removed the rails...What?? No caulk at all?? (really mean comment edited)
3. Acetone washed the footprint inside the pencil lines.
4. sanded the footprint with 80 grit.
5. sanded the rails with 40 grit on the surfaces where they were to be against the cockpit wall.
6. twisted the 40 grit paper inside the honecomb parts of the rubrail.
7. rubbed 5200 into the sandpaper grooves.
8. put lots of caulk on the rails, around the holes and even inside the honeycomb
9. remounted the handrails with gentle tightening of the screws.
10. scraped off the oodles of excess caulk
11. wiped off the excess caulk with paper towells
12. wet a piece of cloth with paint thinner and squeezed out all the excess that might possibly drip.
13. wiped off the excess caulk from the cockpit walls under the rails
14. did NOT wipe of the excess caulk on top of the rails as I was paranoid some of the thinner might run down and ruin the bond between the rails and the cockpit side walls.
15. waited a couple days and firmly tightened the handrail screws
.
Testimonial:
This reinforcing system really works!! Wednesday night I was attempting to keep up with hotshot kid sailor Mark Hulings. I was on a starboard run just a few feet behind and he was on my port side.
I thought a gybe to take his transom might just get me an inside overlap at the next mark.
I leaned back, pulled on my mainsheet and leaned in to grab one of those well mounted rails.
Neither my old man memory nor the bum knee about which it should have been warning me did a thing to slow the roll and my mast slammed to the water.
I let go of the rail which was still stuck to the boat.
Then there was the giggle fit and the vertical 360 of the boat which followed. My sail was all the way out so I actually completed that vertical spin ratehr rapidly. Only three boats passed.
After I completed the task of righting the boat, I used one of those grab rails to anchor my hand so I could drag my oversized belly back over the gunwale.
The grabrail still works really well!!
Rails... Here is what I did the day I got my last Vanguard new boat.
1. Traced around the rails with a pencil
2. Removed the rails...What?? No caulk at all?? (really mean comment edited)
3. Acetone washed the footprint inside the pencil lines.
4. sanded the footprint with 80 grit.
5. sanded the rails with 40 grit on the surfaces where they were to be against the cockpit wall.
6. twisted the 40 grit paper inside the honecomb parts of the rubrail.
7. rubbed 5200 into the sandpaper grooves.
8. put lots of caulk on the rails, around the holes and even inside the honeycomb
9. remounted the handrails with gentle tightening of the screws.
10. scraped off the oodles of excess caulk
11. wiped off the excess caulk with paper towells
12. wet a piece of cloth with paint thinner and squeezed out all the excess that might possibly drip.
13. wiped off the excess caulk from the cockpit walls under the rails
14. did NOT wipe of the excess caulk on top of the rails as I was paranoid some of the thinner might run down and ruin the bond between the rails and the cockpit side walls.
15. waited a couple days and firmly tightened the handrail screws
.
Testimonial:
This reinforcing system really works!! Wednesday night I was attempting to keep up with hotshot kid sailor Mark Hulings. I was on a starboard run just a few feet behind and he was on my port side.
I thought a gybe to take his transom might just get me an inside overlap at the next mark.
I leaned back, pulled on my mainsheet and leaned in to grab one of those well mounted rails.
Neither my old man memory nor the bum knee about which it should have been warning me did a thing to slow the roll and my mast slammed to the water.
I let go of the rail which was still stuck to the boat.
Then there was the giggle fit and the vertical 360 of the boat which followed. My sail was all the way out so I actually completed that vertical spin ratehr rapidly. Only three boats passed.
After I completed the task of righting the boat, I used one of those grab rails to anchor my hand so I could drag my oversized belly back over the gunwale.
The grabrail still works really well!!
Cindy Taylor
Member
Well, I've been sailing my 1999 Laser with a broken grab rail. It was only missing about 4 inches at the front but after Saturday an additional 6 inches fell off. So now I need to replace my grab rail. The web site for APS recommends that you always replace the plastic anchor plugs. My husband thinks this is a pain to do... should I force him to do it?? Is there a trick to replacing these plastic anchors?
Thanks,
Cindy
Thanks,
Cindy
hydroslyder
Member
Cindy I replaced mine thinking it was going to be a hassle, and I ordered the plugs from APS, but once i took my grab rails off, I couldnt even take the plugs out. So I just used the old plugs, put some 5200 on the screws and in the holes, and screwed the new grab rails on, I have sailed about 5 times with the new rails and they have held firm. So the 10 dollars I paid for the plugs was a waste and now I have 10 spairs. Just make sure to take your grab rail off and check the plugs before you order because you may not need them.
Chris
Chris
gouvernail
Super Opinionated and Always Correct
Cindy Taylor said:
WOW! This really isn't that sort of website...
Seriously?? If the old ones hold well, there is no real need for replacement.
If the screws tighten firmly, the old ones are still good.
Probably the best thing to do is "dry fit" the rails and before you smear caulk all over the place, you will learn which plugs hold and which are shot.
L
LarsenCanvas
Guest
I have a 1995 hull. The prior owner of the boat bought had new grap rail, but not installed when I got the boat. I tried to put on the new grab rails and found the holes where not exactly in the same place. So basically then I couldn't even use them. I just put the old grab rails back on. So make sure when you buy a new grab rail that the hole pattern is exactly in the same spot. The old owner sent the grab rails back to APS and they said they have had grab rails come back for the same reason. Also found that the plugs sometime get stripped. So I would suggest you consider putting in the new plugs. Not necessary but the can get stripped. I might consider filling the holes of old plugs with 5200 and let it dry prior to re-installing your grab rails. Then when your reinstall the rail this should help with the stripping some what.
Cindy Taylor
Member
Thanks for the advice! I have parts on the way and hopefully the holes on the new grab rails will match the existing holes.