My SF is a 1981 I recovered from an abandoned state. the chrome handle on the bow is heavily pitted. Fixing or replacing it is not high on my list but is a to-do I intend to deal with. Do I replace it? Where can you find and how hard would it be to swap it out? Or, is it possible to repair it?
Repairing is going to me more expensive than buying a new one, about $18 + shipping on e-bay or buy a used one from me (with minimal pitting) at $10 + shipping.
Replace it. The pitting is usually a precursor to the pot metal crumbling and breaking when you least expect it. The metal around the screws gets especially fragile, there is not much metal there to begin with.
Your 1981 boat has a wooden backer block inside the hull for the 4 screws. Those blocks are usually held in place by a fiberglass hanger but many times the block can be loose, so when you replace the handle make sure to leave one screw inserted into the block at all times so that the block does not fall down into the hull. Loosen one screw and remove the other 3 screws. Swivel the old handle out of the way. Attach the other end of the new handle loosely with one screw. Remove the last screw from the old handle. Swivel new handle into position and insert remaining screws.
My SF is a 1981 I recovered from an abandoned state. the chrome handle on the bow is heavily pitted. Fixing or replacing it is not high on my list but is a to-do I intend to deal with. Do I replace it? Where can you find and how hard would it be to swap it out? Or, is it possible to repair it?
How does it compare with one (below) that was intact when I bought the Sunfish? I think I owned it an hour before it disintegrated.
Actually, there is a pot-metal "brazing rod" that will "flow" a silvery filling-metal using just a propane torch. It's questionable how long that repair will last with the heavy use the Sunfish bow handle receives with every launch.
You'll recognize its value right away, when it's missing!
I have this problem with the Oldfish in Wisconsin. Bought a new handle
but did not replace it, although I did some much needed repair work with Marine Tex last summer. I am hoping to get there this summer and replace the handle since it is now upside down on my Dad's N scale train table. I also plan to clean up the deck since it is up the hill and out of the water. Hope to get my Cyclone 13 sailing too.
Replace it. The pitting is usually a precursor to the pot metal crumbling and breaking when you least expect it. The metal around the screws gets especially fragile, there is not much metal there to begin with.
Your 1981 boat has a wooden backer block inside the hull for the 4 screws. Those blocks are usually held in place by a fiberglass hanger but many times the block can be loose, so when you replace the handle make sure to leave one screw inserted into the block at all times so that the block does not fall down into the hull. Loosen one screw and remove the other 3 screws. Swivel the old handle out of the way. Attach the other end of the new handle loosely with one screw. Remove the last screw from the old handle. Swivel new handle into position and insert remaining screws.
Very helpful tip. Thanks. In a similar vein I may remove the rudder mount from the transom while I paint the bottom. Do I need to take the same precaution there?
I have this problem with the Oldfish in Wisconsin. Bought a new handleView attachment 46058View attachment 46059
but did not replace it, although I did some much needed repair work with Marine Tex last summer. I am hoping to get there this summer and replace the handle since it is now upside down on my Dad's N scale train table. I also plan to clean up the deck since it is up the hill and out of the water. Hope to get my Cyclone 13 sailing too.
I have a mount (see photo) on the bow below the rub rail I will remove. Planning on using epoxy to fill the screws holes, or is Marinetex a better choice?
I have a mount (see photo) on the bow below the rub rail I will remove. Planning on using epoxy to fill the screws holes, or is Marinetex a better choice?