After my boat was dislodged from its dock cradle during a recent storm the bailer housing is half missing and the ball is gone. I found an online merchant that sells the replacement part. But how to I remove the remaining bailer from the bottom of the hull and what is the best way to install the new one? I am NOT an experienced fixer-upper. Also, the metal strip on the port side of the hull/deck junction has detached. Sealant alone will not keep it in place...suggestions?
A classic example of plastic bailer damage. Grind off the remaining bits of the broken bailer hood & glue on a piece cut from a 1-1/2" 90° PVC plumbing elbow.
Instructions (a PDF file): http://tinyurl.com/ycxcuen4 (But a new bailer housing - part #91029 - is < $20)
The Sunfish bailers have a big nut on the inside that can be readily loosened with Channel-Lock pliers. (Other names for similar tools: slip-joint, or water-pump). If unavailable, a chisel and hammer can be pressed into service.
From the advertisers here, a new bailer ($45), is an easy replacement, and can be installed without sealant. I save all the old pieces. (The pins can be straightened and used for lost mast cap pins—new interior bailer parts can tear or go missing).
Loose aluminum trim should be duct-taped as soon as possible to prevent further damage, additional repairs, or injury. Tape the ends first.
Duct-tape adhesive can be removed later. Wrap a rag around your Vise-Grips, spray with your WD-40 and rub the adhesive away.
No need to buy the whole bailer... all you need is Sunfish part #91029, the bailer housing (it comes with a new ball). ~$15-$16ish on the net. Unscrew the big nut thing inside the cockpit and use it to fasten the new bailer housing to the outside of the hull.
All the big kid surfskiers use bullets, but their bailers are hydrodynamically much cleaner than the Sunfish's. If John DePersia had invented in Australia instead of in Michigan....
There's a metal bailer on E-Bay for $175. At that price I'm
tempted to sell my bailers take a overseas vacation. Perhaps
invest in a Depersia bailer retirement fund.
So talking about bailer bullets here is ***way*** off topic, but...
I don't think adding a bullet behind a DePersia or plastic Sunfish bailer will do anything to increase bailer efficiency. Both Sunfish bailers have thickish bases with their external openings raised well away from the hull, and both have angled, swept back hoods. In order to work, a bullet needs to be snugged right up to the bailer hood, looking like it partially fills the hood opening. The bullet works by extending and increasing the zone of low pressure turbulence behind the bailer, thus pulling more water out through it. The geometry of Sunfish bailers is wrong for bullets....
After my boat was dislodged from its dock cradle during a recent storm the bailer housing is half missing and the ball is gone. I found an online merchant that sells the replacement part. But how to I remove the remaining bailer from the bottom of the hull and what is the best way to install the new one? I am NOT an experienced fixer-upper. Also, the metal strip on the port side of the hull/deck junction has detached. Sealant alone will not keep it in place...suggestions?
If you want to go sailing right away, I suggest a hardware item temporarily installed on the inside, made of neoprene. As Beldar is always telling me, "Put a cork in it".
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So talking about bailer bullets here is ***way*** off topic, but...
I don't think adding a bullet behind a DePersia or plastic Sunfish bailer will do anything to increase bailer efficiency. Both Sunfish bailers have thickish bases with their external openings raised well away from the hull, and both have angled, swept back hoods. In order to work, a bullet needs to be snugged right up to the bailer hood, looking like it partially fills the hood opening. The bullet works by extending and increasing the zone of low pressure turbulence behind the bailer, thus pulling more water out through it. The geometry of Sunfish bailers is wrong for bullets....