Autobailer
- Thread starter SteveV
- Start date
JacksonAUS
New Member
Just check that the screw holding the venturi in is tight.... do it up really really tight and it should pull the venturi up into a sealed position.
JacksonAUS
New Member
Umm, I call the system the venturi. Sorry, i should have been a bit more descriptive.
You explained that the plastic rim is not completely sealed, i think you're talking about the main piece that is on the bottom of the boat. In the centre of the rim there is a philips head screw, just tighten it up until the rim seems to be in a sealed position.
If everything seems to be operational, a repair kit might be a waste of money, see if you can buy the cork seperately.
You explained that the plastic rim is not completely sealed, i think you're talking about the main piece that is on the bottom of the boat. In the centre of the rim there is a philips head screw, just tighten it up until the rim seems to be in a sealed position.
If everything seems to be operational, a repair kit might be a waste of money, see if you can buy the cork seperately.
Lightnsail
New Member
I bought a bailer for my old boat that didn't have one and trust me the included instructions were somewhat vague and only pictoral, no words describing the operation at all. I'll try to describe what I interpret the pictures to mean:
1. Hand position the bailer in the inset and use a 5mm drill bit to drill a pilot hole through the recessed area of the hull,
2. Remove the bailer and drill a 7.5mm hole where you drilled the pilot hole,
3. Tap in the anchor with a hammer,
4. Take the bailer and reposition into the recess, inserting the brass stem into the drain hole through the hull into the cockpit,
5. Take the screw and screw it into the previously inserted anchor until tight,
6. Press the rubber stopper into the brass stem in the cockpit,
Do not apply sealant around the bailer as you will not be able to easily remove the bailer to replace the O-Rings that close the bailer door.
Good Luck.
1. Hand position the bailer in the inset and use a 5mm drill bit to drill a pilot hole through the recessed area of the hull,
2. Remove the bailer and drill a 7.5mm hole where you drilled the pilot hole,
3. Tap in the anchor with a hammer,
4. Take the bailer and reposition into the recess, inserting the brass stem into the drain hole through the hull into the cockpit,
5. Take the screw and screw it into the previously inserted anchor until tight,
6. Press the rubber stopper into the brass stem in the cockpit,
Do not apply sealant around the bailer as you will not be able to easily remove the bailer to replace the O-Rings that close the bailer door.
Good Luck.
Lightnsail
New Member
Ok, I just finished the bailer install and it was a piece of cake. Only odd thing I noticed is the rubber stopper doesn't actually plug the cockpit drain hole when the bailer is in the closed position. Given that the door on the bailer doesn't have a seal and you can see a little daylight through it, I'm wondering if water will leak into the cockpit when the bailer is closed?
David
New Member
Hmm when I bought mine and installed it, I had to 'modify' it a little...
My plug was a little off-center for some reason, so I had to cut some of the insides of the autobailer...then when I put it on it wouldnt go tight to the hull, so i filled it in with some 4200, and it works fine. I can see why you wouldn't put any sticky stuff on it though, I'm sure it adds a little resistance to the hydrodynamic aspect of things
My plug was a little off-center for some reason, so I had to cut some of the insides of the autobailer...then when I put it on it wouldnt go tight to the hull, so i filled it in with some 4200, and it works fine. I can see why you wouldn't put any sticky stuff on it though, I'm sure it adds a little resistance to the hydrodynamic aspect of things
Rob B
Well-Known Member
Take a pair of plyers and put them on the metal thing that the plug slides onto. Then work the plug back until you can close the darin and get a snug fit with the plug. It's not very easy to do as the plug is real snug on the metal thing, but you have to do this. Otherwise it will leak quite a bit.
Lightnsail said:
When I got my new Laser this June, the factory installed bailer's black, plastic rim was sticking up a bit and was not completely flat/streemlined. Just the other day I easily fixed this problem.
First I took off the plug in the cockpit from the metal rod and unscrewed the auto-bailer from the hull. Simply doing those two things let the whole system detach. Then I cut away all the silicone around the screw hull. I then took my own silicone, put it all in and around the screw hole and then started siliconing the inside of the blask plastic rim. Then I put the system back on, screwed it down real well, and wiped away the excess. Finally I put a piece of cardboard over the entire auto-bailer on the hull and stacked a few heavy blovks on it for the night. The next day when I took it off, it was completely flat. Now that the rim is seeled, there is more suction and the system works heaps better.
First I took off the plug in the cockpit from the metal rod and unscrewed the auto-bailer from the hull. Simply doing those two things let the whole system detach. Then I cut away all the silicone around the screw hull. I then took my own silicone, put it all in and around the screw hole and then started siliconing the inside of the blask plastic rim. Then I put the system back on, screwed it down real well, and wiped away the excess. Finally I put a piece of cardboard over the entire auto-bailer on the hull and stacked a few heavy blovks on it for the night. The next day when I took it off, it was completely flat. Now that the rim is seeled, there is more suction and the system works heaps better.
fishingmickey
Member
Howdy Ya'll,
Here's my two cents worth, with originally owning two used boats... I just bought a new one. Also the fact I was sliding my boat off of a trailer to launch, and might have forgotten to close the bailer once or twice before sliding it off didn't help a bit. So I've had quite a bit of pratice replacing the auto-bailer "O" rings and have purchased two complete auto bailer kits. The new auto-bailer replacement kit I bought didn't fit nearly well enough to please me... It wasn't flush to the edge, and I had to play with it a bit. The screw hole didn't line up properly (the angle was different) on one of my boats with the screw hole in the bailer. It is a 93 Kiwi Laser, I was using a replacement Vanguard auto-bailer. I could get the screw to bite... but tightening it further would cause the bailer to shift outside of it's recessed area. So I used a 1/4" bit/6 mm drill bit and wallowed out the screw hole in the bailer to what I thought was the correct angle. Basically until I could tighten the screw until snug without having the bailer walk away from being in the proper position, flush with the hull...
The other trick I haved learned through trial and error is pretty much like Macwas said in his post. Put a approximately 1/8"/3mm Silicone bead around the underside of the bailer and around the bailer mating edge of your hull. Fit your bailer in to the proper position and weight it down with a book and a brick or something adequate if you like. If it sits into place fine you can probably do without weighting it down. My exception is I think to Mac's description is, I don't insert the screw until after the silicone has had a chance to dry overnight... Then coat the threads of your screw with silicone sealant and just tighten until snug, no need to be muscle-man tight on it.
I think the fit on the auto bailer is pretty important because water resistance sucks the speed out of your boat, and I think I might have put more then two cents in it.
Best regards,
FishingMickey
178894/150087
Here's my two cents worth, with originally owning two used boats... I just bought a new one. Also the fact I was sliding my boat off of a trailer to launch, and might have forgotten to close the bailer once or twice before sliding it off didn't help a bit. So I've had quite a bit of pratice replacing the auto-bailer "O" rings and have purchased two complete auto bailer kits. The new auto-bailer replacement kit I bought didn't fit nearly well enough to please me... It wasn't flush to the edge, and I had to play with it a bit. The screw hole didn't line up properly (the angle was different) on one of my boats with the screw hole in the bailer. It is a 93 Kiwi Laser, I was using a replacement Vanguard auto-bailer. I could get the screw to bite... but tightening it further would cause the bailer to shift outside of it's recessed area. So I used a 1/4" bit/6 mm drill bit and wallowed out the screw hole in the bailer to what I thought was the correct angle. Basically until I could tighten the screw until snug without having the bailer walk away from being in the proper position, flush with the hull...
The other trick I haved learned through trial and error is pretty much like Macwas said in his post. Put a approximately 1/8"/3mm Silicone bead around the underside of the bailer and around the bailer mating edge of your hull. Fit your bailer in to the proper position and weight it down with a book and a brick or something adequate if you like. If it sits into place fine you can probably do without weighting it down. My exception is I think to Mac's description is, I don't insert the screw until after the silicone has had a chance to dry overnight... Then coat the threads of your screw with silicone sealant and just tighten until snug, no need to be muscle-man tight on it.
I think the fit on the auto bailer is pretty important because water resistance sucks the speed out of your boat, and I think I might have put more then two cents in it.
Best regards,
FishingMickey
178894/150087