another question about the rudder

A

allmightymatt

New Member
I have a late 60s early 70s sunfish. i still have the old rudder on it but im trying to install the new rudder keeping the old hardware. i made it work but on one real windy day as i came in i saw that i snapped the new rudder. does anyone know anything about keeping the old hardware on the new style rudder. im going to fiberglass the rudder so that should make it stronger and maybe it wont snap again. but if anyone knows a way i can install the new rudder with old hardware that would be a big help
 
Matt,
Can't speak on using old hardware with a new blade, but cracking/spliting of the blade does happen. Page 344 of the Sunfish Bible has some suggestions on repairing-reinforceing the rudder blade with rods or headless bolts. They run fore and aft, above and below the pivot/tiller holes. After installing the bolts and pluging the hole ends (and shaping the plug to the same shape as the leading/trailing edges), a fiberglass wrap would also help strengthen the blade.
My question is why do you want to keep the old hardware (other than temporary economics), it is such a PITA, popping out, having to constantly adjust the the tension, the potential for leaking, worring about losing the pivot pin and finding replacement parts. Once you upgrade to the new system, all of the above problems go away.
 
I want to keep the old hardware because i like to keep the original look of the boat. i dont want to dril an inspection port in the back of the boat. i havent had any problems with the rudder popping out. i just really dont like seeing an inspection port in the back of the boat, doesnt look right. ill look into the idea of putting rods into the rudder though thanks, and making it stronger that way.
 
Matt,

An alternative to putting the inspection port in the deck at the stern of the older boats is to put on the rear wall of the footwell. I have done this on two 60's vintage boats to replace the rudder hardware. If you go this route, you can cut down the size of the backing plate making 2 pieces that are about 1.5" in height. Match drill and tap the pieces to accept the screws that hold the rudder gudgeon to the hull and then using a broom handle or an old tiller extension gently tape the plates to the end of the handle so you can reach the stern through the open port. This will require 2 people and some patience so dont rush the job. I assure you it can be down and makes for a nice neat installation. Think it through before you start.

Good luck,

David
 
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