Had to do it. Saw a $500 Sunfish on FB Marketplace. It was less than 10 min after it was posted, and she agreed to let me come see it this morning. My thought was that as long as it was in better shape than one of my others, I could save a lot of money by buying this one, compared to the cost of materials to finish rehabbing.
Well, she’s sailable, has a rack paid for at a sailing beach 10 minutes from my home, and I can finally sail this summer. I’d say that’s a bargain.
Somebody painted her with goodness knows what, from top to tail. Her bow handle is about 6 inches back from where it should be, and her bailer is broken off in the cockpit and glued shut
I'm sailing a beautiful $150 Sunfish that the seller brought to my door! He'd prepared it for painting, so I had to remove about 30-feet of masking tape before sailing.
I'm sailing a beautiful $150 Sunfish that the seller brought to my door! He'd prepared it for painting, so I had to remove about 30-feet of masking tape before sailing.
The selling point on this one is that it’s on a rack at a sailing beach and I haven’t sailed even once this summer. Northshore Chicago suburbs have very little availability for Sunfish access for less than 1k in fees. Some are less but it can be a multi-year waitlist to even get a launching permit. I’m happy with my purchase
It is a pre 1971 boat, with just the sheet hook aka open fairlead. so some liberties have been taken. It looks like they have added a "fairlead" on the deck forward of that cleat Take a look at page 42 of the Craigslist Rigging Guide for more helpful tips
I'm wondering what the wood block is for?
Which got me to thinking that that wood block might be covering up the hull vent hole. For those tuned in, the early 1960s fiberglass Sunfish had the hull vent hole, which is about 9/64th inch diameter, underneath the ALCORT Serial No, metal plate just behind the coaming. Or in some cases drilled through the metal tag.
And at some point late 60s-early 70s the hull vent moved to the cockpit forward bulkhead, just under the cockpit lip. (Image: Not mine)
And for those tuned in, that carriage bolt for the old style Rudder Releasing Mechanism is installed upside down, the thumb nut should go on top.
Also when we trailer we tape over the bronze on the stern, because there are historical reports of various fasteners and bits not making it to the destination. The rudder pin has the World's weakest keeper chain that is secured to the deck, we secure our rudder pins to the rudder. We also tape over the old style mast halyard blocks, the nylon nut securing the eyebolt can vibrate loose.