Search results

Kris, I'll second the Intensity covers. I purchased both a hull & deck cover in acrylic and have been very happy with them, and believe they are reasonably priced. Either cover can work by itself or in tandem depending on your application.

I have had a great experience with Jim as well. I also had an 'early batch' sail, and he offered a great deal on replacing it. After we had extensive discussion about the problem (tension in the thread), I took it to my local sailmaker instead of shipping back to Jim. It is much better now and I...

I just installed these springs yesterday, and they are great. When I am in Annapolis this weekend, I am picking up a few more pairs for my other Laser buddies. Thanks Stephen...keep trying to get them approved, this member will vote for them! ILCA member Solomons, MD

I think similar to Scott's suggestion, when I flipped my lower spar section and thru-bolted the gooseneck, I used a rubbery spray that you buy in the electrical department at Lowe's (or your other favorite home improvment store). It is like the rubber dip that some folks use to avoid whipping...

I am kinda in the same boat as Dennis. I have never raced in a class regatta, and have been in & out (as a class member) for 20 years. I also agree with Elwood & Rob B above on their comments. I bought an Intensity sail this past summer, and have been pretty happy with it.

So that would be assuming more water is coming in the boat (splashing, etc..) and you just leave the bailer 'open' the whole day and never sitting still enough that water would come back in the cockpit thru the bailer?

Thanks for the reply. I haven't really sailed against other Lasers in years, and just recently pulled my Laser out of the woods. The biggest issue I have been having on Thursday nights is that when the water (3-4" [7-10 cm ;)] maybe??) gets into my cockpit, it melts all the ice in my li'l cooler...

I removed my bailer after it became distorted and not flush with the hull anymore. I am having a hard time justifying the cost of another one since I never used it for most of the time I've had the boat. Do they really make that much of a difference?

Hi There, I had lots of play in my 1980 wooden tiller as well. 15 years ago, I made a new tiller using a 1" piece of aluminum tube from the hardware store (about $5), and the $10 plastic rudder head wedge that you can buy from Laser. That coupled with a fiberglass (old school!) RWO 48"...

I like your thinking Chris. I love the Laser but the restrictive class rules kill me!

Yup...no blocks between the mast and board, even on old boats. I thru-bolted the cleats on 86153. If you already have an inspection port near the centerboard, you can just about reach up there :)

Nice drawing...If you can find the mast tube, you can effect a repair with some fiberglass work, & sanding & some painting to give it one color again.. They make repair 'kits' but they were $300 when I bought one 15 years ago...no idea what they are now.... This is a common failure point if...

My boat is an '80 hull and my newest sail is an '87 Haarstick...and you think you have trouble! ;) To try to actually provide some feedback, I've found that the 'right' spot to point when not in full hike position is just at about the spot where the inside telltales stream back. I normally...

Sounds like a mount for a compass, or some repair for a previously 'installed' compass.

mee168, I stopped buying $25/pair sailing gloves. They don't grip well for long, and then when one part wears out (mine is always the pinky since I also haul halyards and do bow on big boats) they are toast. I recently starting buying Atlas gloves. The blue 300 "Fit" line are apparently the...

I don't really have a comment on your repair (well, actually I do ;), but it sounds like you could have some wear where the metal part of the mast rubs the tube (this may be 1/2 - 1" up the tube?? You did it the way I did it when I fixed my 86153 twice before it failed. Every time I tried to...

I don't know for sure, since I am not a polyester curing expert...I don't know if I'd go out in a gale, but check the cure times on the bottle/can and you might be OK. Heat (a work/shop light, etc..except not flourescent) will always speed up curing time once you have the repair completed...

Hi...I have a friend that has sailed lasers for years. He simply used a length of PVC pipe and split it to make a "U" shaped channel and then screwed it to the trailer frame down the center. It flexed just a little bit but is only holding about 20 lbs. while you push it on. It worked beautifully...

Obviously the dude's cottage boat isn't as well cared for if he didn't know it leaked...it could last a few more months or a few more minutes. I think the boat needs a good overall inspection. I went sailing when my step leaked and was leading the local Thursday night dinghies to the top mark...