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Thanks for the info. In the end I ordered some 409 as it is white. Hopefully I can get some work done on the decks this weekend

Had a look this morning and the floor is now nice and firm. I pulled the tape off, prised off the remaining epoxy and tried drilling out some of the remains. Some of the filler seems to have seeped under the masking tape so this needs to be sanded off and/or painted. I'm starting to wish that I...

I have just started working on my first attempt at de-lamination repair. I have read around and decided on using West epoxy with 407 filler. I have started on the starboard floor of cockpit as this seemed the worst/most critical. I taped over the area to be worked on with masking tape and...

One of these videos suggests that the Byte traveller is pulled to windward in light wind to allow the sail to twist. This is effectively the opposite of what is done in Lasers, a tight rope traveller is like a track traveller set to leeward

I have been sailing a Streaker which is similar to a Laser, but with a stayed rig. For this boat it is recommended to have the traveller loose in light winds. Maybe it is to do with the difference between stayed/unstayed rigs

For Lasers there seems to be this obsession of having the traveller tight. This makes sense in strong winds as you want the boom out and sail flat. But in light winds if you loosen off the traveller you can bring the boom in and point higher?

So are you saying it's not worth fixing delamination?

This is very interesting. No extra weight, at least two year lifespan, no mucking about with epoxy. If I put too much foam in is it possible to remove it (with bent coat hanger for example)?

Do you mean polyurethane foam? How long has this lasted so far? There was a previous post about using foam but it only lasted a year or so apparently. If it does work I would like to use foam as it is light

Is that a laser hull? the transom looks a different shape. And I can see stays!

Paul Goodison wrote 'The best position for tell tales is just above the window and one at the half way point between the luff and the top batten'. His boat in the pictures also has another one further forward and up from the lower one There is only one boat with leech tell tales in the whole...

I think I have plenty of suggestions now, thanks for all the replies. I will start by temporarily putting a block on the fairlead to make sure that it is the fairlead that is the problem. If so I can try a few of the other suggestions out

This is interesting - though there would be rubbing between the two ropes going different 'speeds'. So this would be 3 turning points. There would be 2 turning points by the mast so I can still have the block on the boom. This would be 6:1 aswell Your other suggestions are also good

So are you able to stop the moving rope rubbing against the knot? I think this is my main problem

> Also make sure you are using a good clew tiedown system, that adds a ton of friction as well if it's not sliding decently Does the metal slider have less friction than the clew strap?

> I don't think that will cut it. The line has to pass through the fairlead Yes, but by the time I run the line through it will have 4x less load on it! >It used to be the spectra was white, but it comes different colors now. It you say PTFE like coating, it's probaby spectra. It's much...

>You can attach blocks to certain points of the outhaul system (like the clew of the sail), but I believe the line itself must pass throught the fairlead. I was just thinking I could attach a double block to the clew and a single block with becket to the fairlead >What sort of line are you...

I seem to have a lot of friction in my outhaul (rigged 4:1). The mail culprit seems to be the fairlead (at the end of the boom). I'm not sure if it is the fairlead itself or the fact it is rubbing against the knot in the fairlead. I was hoping to just tie a block onto it and use this instead...

Does anyone understand what this means? 'Prebend is the distance between the aft section of the mast and the luff of the sail measured at the top of the lower section when sighting up the mast from the gooseneck to the tip of the mast' from here...

If you check on Ebay you can see that you can see how much the non-hull components are worth. You can probably get 300-400 pounds for these (sail, mast, boom, rudder assembly daggerbourd, kicker, launching trolley), assuming they are in decent condition. So you are really paying 200-300 for the...