My thoughts as well, Oldpaint...
I figured I would first try and use the original hard point.
If there is too much trouble with hitting the cockpit and tangling I will rework the problem.
I have an inspection port standing by to be installed so I can confirm a new backing area is strong enough.
-S
Thank you everyone for the great suggestions...
Here's what I came up with. The original hook screws where slightly drilled out and a larger screw was used. There seems to be plenty of material in there to anchor on.
Great forum and thanks again,
Scott
Andy,
Thanks, I will definitely try every possibility for fitting the eye strap. It is the option I like best.
Did you add any reinforcement to the eye strap? How did you fix it to the hull?
Thanks
Scott
Can anyone comment on if at any time you add a block or a cleat to a location that already doesn't have a hard point item. Do you have to reinforce the inside of the hull? I other words can you just drill and screw in a block or a cleat?
So what is the proper way to mount a block/cleat...
Beldar,
Can you explain a little of the geometry that will not allow for cam clear or block to be placed just forward of the dagger board?
Thank you
Scott
I really like the Hexaratchet idea on the original hook.
But I am a little confused on how to mount a braket for the Hexaratchet block to the hook location. Will the original hook holes be strong enough? Is it required to put an inspection port in next to the dagger board to complete this job...
I just found a good deal on Craigslist. Picked up a Clonefish with a good Sunfish sail, rudder, centerboard and a larger scow trailer that fits the Clone well for $200.
I'd like to add a Sunfish Mainsheet Cam Cleat... Can anyone tell me where the best location to fix it to the boat? Also how...
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