Control line organization...

[GeoffS]

Now that I've got the "new" control-line setup on my boat, I need to do something about keeping things organized.

What are people doing with the tail ends of the varous conrol lines (vang, cuningham, outhaul) to keep them handy for the common adjustment situations, yet as much out of the way as possible?

Cheers,

Geoff S.

 

[james17]

just making them into handles then a big bowline so it looks like a handle loop. for kicker tho i make it into a handle but instead of tying the loose end into a bowline i tie it to the little rope on the centreboard so its always handy when i need it roud the top mark.

 

[loz]

just making them into handles then a big bowline so it looks like a handle loop. for kicker tho i make it into a handle but instead of tying the loose end into a bowline i tie it to the little rope on the centreboard so its always handy when i need it roud the top mark.

similar to what i did - i tied a bowline in the end of each control line, around the end of the toe strap.

 

[JacksonAUS]

That's a really good idea, if only there was a way of having a divided line type system where you can have control lines on both sides of the boat. But I guess that's where things get complicated, and more expensive.

 

[iain_CAN165061]

i braid them, i know alot of people dont like it, but i braid them and the braid acts as the stopknot, so that when i release them, they shoot towarts the cam cleats, maybe people dont like having to rech for them, so adding a little slack and a stopper knot also works

did that make sence?

 

[Steven]

I don't like putting loops in at the end of the control lines, it increases the chances of snagging it on something. Also I had on scary episode a few years back when I capsized and my foot got caught in the outhaul handle (old style rigging with thimbles). Ever since then I braid them, besides the extra length of braiding makes a long handle to grab for)

 

[Steven]

I don't like putting loops in at the end of the control lines, it increases the chances of snagging it on something. Also I had on scary episode a few years back when I capsized and my foot got caught in the outhaul handle (old style rigging with thimbles). Ever since then I braid them, besides the extra length of braiding makes a long handle to grab for)

 

[iain_CAN165061]

i loop the ends of my briading so that its and extra thick handle (if i colapse the loop)

 

[megan_155372]

I braid my lines, but I don't loop them. I think that just having them braided is a good enough handle

 

[bikspk]

I just got the new control system too and the only drawback so far is the lines hanging everywhere. The worst is when a wave breaks over the bow and the lines go with the flow (over the side, down the centerboard trunk, tangle around things) and the worst is getting caught up in the main sheet and going through the block. I've tried the braiding thing which takes a little time but is worth it. I'm going to try and tie off all the ends to the daggerboard next time out to see how that works. The only concern with braiding/knotting how much slack you leave before you run out of line while letting it out.

I'm open to other ideas?

 

[iain_CAN165061]

The only concern with braiding/knotting how much slack you leave before you run out of line while letting it out?

i dont understand...

 

[David]

I'm in the mood to do a 'byte style' system...where you can easily pull the lines in from either side of the boat, Is that legal?

 

[iain_CAN165061]

no, rules are scrict as to what you can mount to the deck of your laser, and the byte control line sistem is not one of the few things that can be mounted. also, we are restricted to how many lines we have on each control system (o=2, c=3, v=2).

sucks

 

[Clive Humphris]

I have a loop in the end of the vang line covered in PVC tube which I throw over the centreboard handle (The length is adjusted to the length that coincides with a broad reach vang setting so it automatically cleats at that). The cunningham line (yellow) is tied to the base of the vang loop and passes through a loop formed by the centreboard tie down shockcord at the front of the centreboard. I find this arrangment keeps these line within reach "no matter what" and avoids hang ups most of the time. The attached photo shows a typical setting just after rounding the windward mark.

 

[[email protected]]

I'm interested in learning how to braid a bowline loop. Does anyone know of somewhere online where this is shown? drlaser had a page but the images are now gone.

Thanks.

 

[144679]

I'm interested in learning how to braid a bowline loop. Does anyone know of somewhere online where this is shown? drlaser had a page but the images are now gone.

Thanks.

how do i post an image tht is on my hard drive???

i have a diagram of the rope handle for all to see, if only i can post it

 

[49208]

Regarding attaching images:
http://www.laserforum.org/faq.php?faq=vb_read_and_post#faq_vb_attachment_explain

(you need to use the "Go advanced" button, you can't use the "Post quick reply" button )

 

[larry]

Now that I've got the "new" control-line setup on my boat, I need to do something about keeping things organized.

What are people doing with the tail ends of the varous conrol lines (vang, cuningham, outhaul) to keep them handy for the common adjustment situations, yet as much out of the way as possible?

Cheers,

Geoff S.

My opinion is to use simple patterns.

-Don't use to many loops that may require to much travel. It's prefferable to train yourself to use your power correctly when pulling the ropes, rather than have "two-finger-pull" systems. In addition you may use blocks to reduce drag(I assume you've already done).

-Also cut the rope to the exact length you need it. For example, when you design your vang system, calculate that your optional block should touch the block attached to the boom at the looser adjustment of your system(90 deg or 90+ deg between mast and boom) and at the other end make sure you dont have sparse rope.

These will lead to a system with zero sparse rope in the looser adjustment + minimum travel = minimum sparse rope in every adjustment. Which means the rope will require the minimum space in the boat and out of the way + handy at all times.

Also when using the mainsheet try to always place it in one place(I prefer far back and to the starboard side), so it doesn't mess on your feet.

The new set of rules comes in our convinience, as it's possible for everyone to adjust for example the outhaul even in downwind. But let's not overdo it, it may work against us.

P.S. Do you use the old or the new setting for the outhaul?

 

[144679]

well the image is too big to be ppsted, but... i will send it via email to you

 

[[email protected]]

Braided bowline handle -


1) Create a slipnot for the tail end of the line.
2) Pull a tail end loop through the slip knot loop. Contiuning until there's about 3" to 4" inches of line left.
3) Pull the tail through the last loop to finish the braid.
4) Finish the handle loop with a bowline knot.

 

[GeoffS]

Interesting. We make tapered mainsheets for DN iceboats the same way. I have a couple of photos on the chain-stitch knotting at: http://www.geoff-s.net/ice/BraidedDnMainsheet/index.html

Cheers,

Geoff S.

 

[Mullet Time!]

One thing that I was told to do was put my vang through the hole in my daggerboard so that you can reach in and get it, but the problem i had was either i couldnt pull enough vang in because the board held it back or the rope was so long it fell into the water on the other side. I resolved this issue by attaching a short length of bungie in between the end of the vang rope and the daggerboard, this way it keeps it organized and you can adjust it well.