Laser maststep repair????

L

laser170654

New Member
Hi I have a 2001 laser bought used
and I was wondering when a port hole
it needed to look at mast step?
Or is a 2001 laser built tough!
There is a couple or tiny loose bits in the boats
what can or should I do!!!
Thanks
 
laser170654 said:
Hi I have a 2001 laser bought used
and I was wondering when a port hole
it needed to look at mast step?
Or is a 2001 laser built tough!
There is a couple or tiny loose bits in the boats
what can or should I do!!!
Thanks
Click to expand...

If you have concerns that the boat has been wet inside for long periods, then you would put a port hole in to check it out. How was the boat used before you bought it? If it was just for recreational sailing and club racing, a 2001 should be holding up just fine. It would have to have been raced really hard to be concerned about the mast step on such a new boat. I don't know about the remedy for loose bits or if it's a cause for concern. Anyone?

Merrily
 
does the mast step leak? Does it have stress cracks in the tube (sorta hard to see or feel well) Are there cracks on deck radiating from the mast step?

If not, no reason in my mind to go drilling 4" holes in your boat.
 
laser170654 Reg User said:
No there are no cracks I can see and the boat is dry!!!!
ARe the boats built better now?
Thanks
Click to expand...

Yes Reguser the boats are built better now. They are better because they are Lasers and all Lasers are just like all other Lasers. Whenever a new Laser is created, it joins a larger group of previously built Lasers and since the purpose of the Laser is to be just like all other Lasers and there are now even more Lasers, the newer Laser is better, but not better than the old Lasers as the other Lasers, which have always been exactly alike, become better every time a new Laser is created as they now have one more Laser to which they can be compared as equals.
So, Reguser, when you ask if the boats are built better now, we can only conclude that you are asking if they had better be built. The answer has been and will always be, as long as the Laser exists in the hearts and minds of sailors like you, the Laser will be better.
And so, Dear Reguser, you better sail one, and you will be better for it.
 
gouvernail said:
And so, Dear Reguser, you better sail one, and you will be better for it.
Click to expand...

All right, so you have finally, completely, utterly, cracked up. Stop trying to scare the new users!

Merrily
 
Hi 'laser170654',
if you install an inspection port in a not perfect way to your 170654, you maybe have one reason more, that water comes inside the hull in a way you don't want.
Unless the maststep is not leaky or broken you better sail without an inspection port. Your boat is built in 2001 (or maybe in the late end of 2000) and if she is not sailed strong until now, you have a nice ship for racing. To test the hull if there is something leaky, you can make the so called "tube test" at the transom bung. My english is not good enough to explain this in details well, but the others here can.
Often the holes of the grabrailscrews are leaky (in reason of not having been sealed good at the Laser-shipyard), but this is easy to "repair". Same for all screwholes at the deck.

Ciao
LooserLu
Laser GER 171442, Laser GER 46438
 
Speaking of grab rail leaks, I recently bought a used laser with a broken grab rail. The other grab rail has already been replaced.

This laser does have a leak (or leaks) in the cockpit area. I think one place is the port, but since you mention it, perhaps the replaced grab rail leaks.

Any tips for fixing these leaks? What should I use as a sealant?

Rob
 
Old Poop must have been tossing back some longnecks in appreciation of the Hook'em Horns victory over the left coast girls.

Perhaps when he has regained his senses he can give us an idea of how many of the Vanguard built Lasers he's had to repair maststeps and if it was from misuse, normal wear and tear or some reason

I bought a '96 (built by Vanguard) last year that was moderatly used, the mast step was in good conditon and the doughnut looked fine. I have a 2002 that has been sailed hard since new and I've not put a port in yet. I am not planning on putting in a port for at least another couple of years (if I keep it that long).
 
Rob E said:
...
Any tips for fixing these leaks? What should I use as a sealant?

Rob
Click to expand...
Loose all the screws. Put Marine-Silicone (such as "Sikaflex TECHNIQUE 291" - its in Europe simply the best Marine-Silicone, Solicone from the home depot for the bathroom is definitely not the stuff that will hold durable enough over the times is my honest experience) around the screws and into the holes of the grabrails (into the holes of the cockpit-wall also a bit) and tighten the screws again. The hole under the hiking-strap at the front Cockpit-wall has not to be sealed.

Laser 171442 has no inspection-ports and I have the same opinion to that with such younger Lasers, like '49208'. But the very old Lasers (f. e. my old 46438) may need an inspection-port in the way Merrily said.

An advice for the sort of inspection-ports (Maybe someone others need such a hint)? -> Take them from "RWO" (from UK), I have made the best experiences with them.

Ciao
LoooserLu
 
Hey. Thanks for the response.

I guess I'll use whatever marine grade silicone that's available. I've never seen Sikaflex available.

I will re-seal the non-broken grab rail and seal the new rail. Thanks for the instructions.

There is an existing port, which may be leaking. I think the leaking is because there is no gasket between the lid and the ring that it screws into. Perhaps just putting a barney bag in there will fix that leak.
 
1. Never had to fix a Vanguard mast step. I don't even feel the need to add "yet" to that comment.
Never fixed a mast step for any Laser with a sail number over 80,000.
The fastening system between the tube and the hull used to be stooooopid and the more recent builders figured out how to make a durable structure.

2. Of those I have seen>>> Almost every one of the leaky inspection ports next to the trunk had the same failure.
The threaded part of the outside ring has cracked away from the flat part on the deck.
restated...
The plastic is cracked just outside the rubber ring.

Screw in the lid and push down firmly on it. 50 lbs or 25 kilos at the least. I didn't write "smack it>" Just push. If the ring is in good condition nothing will happen. if the ring is cracked, you may push it right through.

it is time to replace it.

Nots: Use SILICONE sealant. DO NOT use a fancy sealant like 3m 5200, 3M 4200, or polysulfide. Those sealants will eat the plastic and weaken the replacement ring...and it will break!!!

3. All Lasers are 100% alike. The sails are exactly the same too.
 
Hi,

There used to be some great cartoon ads that went "If it doesn't say Sunkist, you don't know what's inside!", that featured exploding oranges, etc. Well, I'd say even if it says Vanguard, you don't know what's inside. So, I put in a port, 5" Viking with bag, just a little foreward of where Paige has hers (see below).

I've seen (and own) great 74's, and seen (and owned) bad '94's. Mast step failure is only the extreme example of water damage. Earlier symptoms are heaviness, softness, floppy decks, etc. and all sorts of flora and fauna inside. Lasers are not waterproof, inside or outside, and have all sorts of wood and foam that can soak up even the slightest condensation, then freeze and thaw causing all kinds of trouble.

Fresh air is the only way to dry a boat. So I don't just put in a port for inspection, but I also store the boat with the port open, bag out, etc. to let the air in and out. Yup, even my '05.

Maybe that's Paige's secret to success?

Al Russell 182797
 

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