Sunfish setup questions....

Discussion in 'Sunfish Talk' started by Tim Polaski, Apr 27, 2004.

  1. Tim Polaski

    Tim Polaski 79429

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    Hey all,

    just got my fish(es) and have sailed a few times, but i have some questions....

    1 - Do you use any tape (shims) around the mast in the step to minimize freeplay? if so, what kind seems to work best?

    2- Is there any need to have "mast bottom protection discs" like in a Laser to keep the mast from wearing in the step?

    3 - The tiller doesn't noticeably rub on the aft deck, but there are wear marks from the previous owner.....is there any special protection needed here?

    4 - I actually have two fish, one for my wife and one for me.....one of our rudders has been faired down to a very fine trailing edge, the other isn't. Is it class legal to fair out the edge?

    5 - I read in tips and tricks to put some strips (of carpet :confused: ) in the fore and aft edges of the CB trunk to keep the board from wiggling around and getting dinged up....any specific suggestions on material? Which works best?

    6 - I can definitely see the need to relocate the forward boom block to align with the rachet block. It is suggested to thru-bolt. Is that because rivets are too weak for this application? Have people ripped riveted eye straps out? Or is it because most people don't have a rivet gun?

    Thanks for any and all replies :)

    And.....GREAT JOB to the class and individuals who are responsible for the new forum :D .
     
  2. hydroslyder

    hydroslyder Member

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    Congradulations on your new fishes

    1. Yes you should used tape, anything will work, but i prefer electric tape, make sure you can still take off your gooseneck once you are done taping.

    2. No you shouldn't need any mast bottom protection disks.

    3. It shouldn't be needed, the tiller shouldn't rub on the deck at all.

    4. I am almost positive it is class legal to fair out an edge, but you might want to double check this, I think there is a rules page on the sunfish class site.

    5. I think some companies like APS, and other sailing shops sell carpet for this, but I have the loop side of velcro in mine on the sides.

    6. Thru bolting is probably stronger, mine is riveted, so I am not sure about thru bolting, but I have never had problems with the rivets, just check them to make sure they dont pull out, I have seen the actual holes in the boom get wider and the rivets have just fallen out.

    Hope this helps.

    Good luck and good sailing!
     
  3. mike4947

    mike4947 Member

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    Tim, one note on relocating the front mainsheet boom block. Make sure to take into account for a moveable gooseneck and the fact that the lower spar will be in differing positions depending on the gooseneck placement.
    My adjustments range from 12 inches to 24 depending on the wind strength so I had to "average out" where to relocate the block.
     
  4. Tim Polaski

    Tim Polaski 79429

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    Good point. Thanks Mike...and thanks Chris for the clear cut answers to all of my questions ;)

    Tim
     
  5. imported_Scott

    imported_Scott Member

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    I use a plastic type tape that I got at Woodworkers Warehouse to wrap around the mast. As it is about 1/32" thick, one wrap at base and one near deck keeps mast from rubbing. Tape is originally made to keep drawers running smoothly. I also put a piece on top of my tiller where the cable rubs.

    I also use this stuff in my daggerboard slot. It never wears out.

    Happy Sailing!
     
  6. supercub

    supercub Member

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    Tim, I agree with what the other have said. I would use White electric tape instead of black, The black gets yukky :p when exposed to the sun for a while and makes a mess. Take a look at the bottom of your tiller are and make sure there are not any of the hardware sticking out. You may have to put a piece of tape over the bottm if a bolt is exposed. Some people have used a piece of indoor outdoor carpet in the Daggerboard well, glued in with Goop glue. I believe the first (and last) 1-1/4" of both the rudder and daggerboard may be modified (reshaped with marine bondo to round the leading egde and sanded to narrow rhe trailing edge. On the class home page look under the rules on the left side, there is a section that explains what mods you can make including wraping the boards with fiberglass. I would recomend this for the thin edged board (It will be taking abuse). You just have to stay with in the rule demensions. Scott seems to be using the teflon draw slide tape for his mast/well interface. Also check Wind Line Sails (www.windline.net). Dan has a how to section. Torresen (www.torresen.com) has a basic set up guide you can download. And last but not least, try to get a copy of the SF Bible
     

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