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Sunfish repair advice
- Thread starter Charlie7
- Start date
HI Charlie, I'm undertaking a similar restoration project with a sunfish in similar condition. The answer depends on how far you are willing to go. It looks like your gelcoat is about as smooth as a coral reef in which case it should ideally be completely removed (big undertaking) however there is a quicker way, albeit probably not as good. As far as the gouges or anywhere the fiberglass is exposed, these areas need to be sanded, filled and faired. From the photos it looks like there are several areas where water can migrate into the fiberglass. After a thorough cleaning, sanding and cleaning again, try some marine tex to fill the deep gouges (try to use only the minimum amount necessary because marine tex isnt the easiest stuff to sand) after first applying 2 or 3 coats of 2-part epoxy barrier (I use Interlux 2000/2001 or West System) to the boat. Interlux (International Paint) also makes a 2part epoxy filler with the consistency of butter when applied, but it's on the expensive side. Bondo-type fillers also are effective but I can't attest to their longevity in the marine environment.
On my sunfish, I'm going to epoxy barrier coat the entire hull and deck before using any filler or marine tex. When you paint your boat after barrier-coating, do not use ordinary alkyd enamels as their adhesion to Interlux 2000 is not very good, at least in my experience. On the other hand, one part polyurethanes adhere tenaciously and are much more durable. After the paint dries, spiffy it up with Collinite Fleetwax and off you go.
As a side note, I read about a guy who merely marine texed the deep gouges and cracks and then painted the whole works with white Rustoleum (the super "quick and dirty" method).
As a further side note, I'm toying with the probably ridiculous idea of using heat shrink, adhesive lined teflon (PTFE) sheets about 1/8th" thick on the bottom and sides. From my research it seems Teflon is unsurpassed in temperature range, abrasion resistance (huge factor) and lubricity (another huge factor). It is also "non-wetting" so it doesn't absorb water supposedly. If you paint your boat, obviously the hull weight will be slightly increased. Good luck.
Mike
On my sunfish, I'm going to epoxy barrier coat the entire hull and deck before using any filler or marine tex. When you paint your boat after barrier-coating, do not use ordinary alkyd enamels as their adhesion to Interlux 2000 is not very good, at least in my experience. On the other hand, one part polyurethanes adhere tenaciously and are much more durable. After the paint dries, spiffy it up with Collinite Fleetwax and off you go.
As a side note, I read about a guy who merely marine texed the deep gouges and cracks and then painted the whole works with white Rustoleum (the super "quick and dirty" method).
As a further side note, I'm toying with the probably ridiculous idea of using heat shrink, adhesive lined teflon (PTFE) sheets about 1/8th" thick on the bottom and sides. From my research it seems Teflon is unsurpassed in temperature range, abrasion resistance (huge factor) and lubricity (another huge factor). It is also "non-wetting" so it doesn't absorb water supposedly. If you paint your boat, obviously the hull weight will be slightly increased. Good luck.
Mike
Your snaps seem to indicate a good cleaning is needed more than anything else. Give it a scrub with Ajax to get rid of what look to be dirt and mildew spots.
Scrapes can be filled with gel-coat paste and sanded smooth. Gouges down to the glass fiber will even fill with gel-coat paste so long as that’s as far as they go.
After the scrapes and gouges are filled and sanded to match the rest of the bottom buff out the hull with rubbing compound. It could be that’s all you’ll need. You’ll know better once it’s clean.
Scrapes can be filled with gel-coat paste and sanded smooth. Gouges down to the glass fiber will even fill with gel-coat paste so long as that’s as far as they go.
After the scrapes and gouges are filled and sanded to match the rest of the bottom buff out the hull with rubbing compound. It could be that’s all you’ll need. You’ll know better once it’s clean.
Just a couple more points of view:
As Dan said, if all you need is a thorough cleaning, filling and sanding, that's probably your best bet. However, if your boat is often beached, trailered, or otherwise abused like my small craft, each season will leave you with the same problem of breached gelcoat and possibly fiberglass requiring more labor. I've learned that a finely sanded and polished gelcoat is fast, but no match for even the slightest contact with sand, rock, or anything else.
If longevity and ease of maintenance is your cup of tea, consider applying a coating thats tough as nails which consists of an epoxy barrier followed by a coating of an extremely tough, abrasion resistant, nonwetting, nonstick paint. Check out the link below. You might lose a quarter knot or so from the additional weight, but your off season touch up should be a cinch.
http://www.ecologicalcoatings.com/vehicle.html
As Dan said, if all you need is a thorough cleaning, filling and sanding, that's probably your best bet. However, if your boat is often beached, trailered, or otherwise abused like my small craft, each season will leave you with the same problem of breached gelcoat and possibly fiberglass requiring more labor. I've learned that a finely sanded and polished gelcoat is fast, but no match for even the slightest contact with sand, rock, or anything else.
If longevity and ease of maintenance is your cup of tea, consider applying a coating thats tough as nails which consists of an epoxy barrier followed by a coating of an extremely tough, abrasion resistant, nonwetting, nonstick paint. Check out the link below. You might lose a quarter knot or so from the additional weight, but your off season touch up should be a cinch.
http://www.ecologicalcoatings.com/vehicle.html
I agree that if the gelcoat is sound, then it never should be painted, but it looks like there are so many pinholes in his gelcoat in addition to deep gouges that he's gonna have to gelpaste the entire bottom almost. I got the recommendation from a guy who works with heavy equipment and said the eco-coating is very slick and very, very tough. I'm waiting for a quote in terms of price. I'm figuring that if the stuff is tough enough for cement mixers, dumptrucks, sanders and salt spreaders it might do an admirable job on the fish. Isn't that rhino bedliner stuff a rubberized coating? I'm looking for super slick and super abrasion resistant with UV blockers that I can just touch up if need be.
In the pictures I can't tell exactly what the specks are. That's why I'd appreciate a look after it's clean.
Rhino Liner is some sort of rubbery stuff. My comparison was leaning toward the industrial coating sounding thick and heavy and very expensive.
I'll be interested in your findings.
Rhino Liner is some sort of rubbery stuff. My comparison was leaning toward the industrial coating sounding thick and heavy and very expensive.
I'll be interested in your findings.
I'll be sure to post my findings as I get them. I'm also looking into Lubribond A and EZ Slide paint (graphite) in addition to molybdenum disulfide, teflon, etc. In the Sunfish Bible one successful sunfish racer used Helmsman Graphspeed which is seemingly no longer available. My sole concerns for the sunfish bottom and sides are abrasion resistance with the maximum lubricity I can get.
Mike
Mike