stripped deck screws/harken deck plate

M

minnetonkaHSsailing

New Member
my upgraded deck cleats for the cunnignham and outhaul are stripping out. the plate attaches with two screws. Does anyone know how deep the wood is that they are scewed into? is it possible to simply place a longer screw in or should i attempt to fill it with epoxy/sawdust/glassfibre and redrill?

also, how many other people are having this problem? i have the harken upgrades. have they changed the plate any since 1998? i feel like the spaces under the sides are camming on the deck and pulling the screws out when i tighten my controls at larger angles. thoughts?
 
I had a problem where one of my screws sheared off. We had the screw top and the body of the screw was still in the hull. My husband worked on it and I'm not sure if he was able to get the body of the screw out or if it is someplace in my hull. BTW, there was rust around the screw that failed so maybe the stainless steel metal was not high quality. I do sail in salt water and cannot rinse my boat off after each use but if my water bottle has extra water in it after I'm done I empy it out around the important parts that need rinsing.
 
jimmy said:
fill it and re drill. If you have an inspection port nearby consider throughbolting it.
Click to expand...
Hi,
this way is possible to do.

I did that in Summer 2004. From TLF-disussions of that times I can say, that drLaser me teached, not to use a so called "backing plate". Bolts, washers, nuts are alowed, he said. Take steel of "stainless steel quality" "AISI 316" or "AISI 317" (better than "316"). AISI 316 is elsewhere (= here where I live) known as: "V4a -stainless steel".

Another point you have to look for: the measurement diagram of our class rules for the Laser. You may find it in your ILCA Handbook somewhere. There are "min/max" distances shown (beginning from the edge of the gunwale of the deck at the stern). I cannot find the measurement diagrams at the ILCA Homepage in the moment, because the rules have been changed in March 2006 and Falmouth/UK-ILCA-Headqarter is renewing that area of the ILCA-Webpages. In the past this diagrams have been online (".pdf" file format). Perhaps someone other can give you the new link to them, please.

Be aware, the new position of the holes (for the bolts that you perhaps have to drill) follow the rules.

Another hint: the "WEST MARINE User Manual" - if you want to do the repair in another way (witout bolts/washers/nuts), f.e. if there is no inspection port in the neighborhood of the basic-plate for the cleats of the controlines for Cunningham and Outhaul.

http://www.westsystem.com/webpages/userinfo/manual/index.htm


Ciao
LooserLu
 
Are lasers built with polyester or epoxy resin?

West System is epoxy resin, it is generally stronger that polyester, but you should not repair a polyester boat with epoxy or vice versa.
 
Hi again.
From all the TLF-disussions about repairing holes of srews and bolts during the last years I know they all youse 2 component epoxy gluer. "West"-products seems to be the best, but not is available easy everywhere on our globe. If I have to use 2 component epoxy gluer, I take one of "UHU" (the "5 minutes to harden"-version). My favourite (if 2 component epoxy gluer do not helps) is "Stabilit Express" from Henkel, but I always have to be very-yery careful with thas Stabilit, because it gets very strong (like homogene plastic). I really use it if all other solutions of repair-methods fail.

Ciao
LooserLu
 
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