Rustoleum topside

Discussion in 'Sunfish Talk' started by Rob C., May 15, 2012.

  1. Rob C.

    Rob C. Member

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    Those of you who have used this stuff to paint a Sunfish, how long did you have to let the paint to dry before using the boat? I painted some on a scrap of plywood I had in the shop to test it and see what it looked like. That was nearly a week ago and it is still not fully hard yet.

    I am thinking about just hitting the fiberglass patches with a rattle can and waiting until next fall to paint it so it can dry all winter.
     
  2. brianZ71

    brianZ71 Member

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    mine was fully cured in about 24 hours.

    What's your weather like? temperature and humidity? Also was the wood completely dry?

    If you're thinking about hitting it with rattle can, do a test with the topside paint on the fiberglass and see what it does.
     
  3. douglas_zargham

    douglas_zargham Member

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    mine cured in 24 hrs too.
     
  4. Rob C.

    Rob C. Member

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    About 75-80 degrees I am in Eastern VA right on the Chesapeake Bay so it is always pretty humid around here.
     
  5. brianZ71

    brianZ71 Member

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    I did my painting in cooler weather than that. I'd guess humidity is killing you. either that or you got a bad batch of paint.
     
  6. Phillster

    Phillster Member

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    did you prime first ????
     
  7. Rob C.

    Rob C. Member

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    The piece of wood that I tested it on had some white exterior house paint on it...not primer. I haven't started painting the hull yet but I will be priming with the Rustoleum Topside Primer. Did you guys paint it on with a roller, brush, or spray?
     
  8. brianZ71

    brianZ71 Member

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    I didn't prime. I used a foam roller and tipped it with a cheapo foam brush. Came out awesome.
     
  9. Rob C.

    Rob C. Member

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    What grit sandpaper did you sand it down with? Did you sand it down between coats? Did any gelcoat cracks show through after you painted?
     
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  10. douglas_zargham

    douglas_zargham Member

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    i sprayed it on...was tough to find the right mix proportion of thinner, but once i worked it out it was fine. have one more boat to do - thinking of rolling and tipping the field and spraying the stripes. i did a skunk stripe right down the middle flanked by two pin stripes - came out great!
     
  11. brianZ71

    brianZ71 Member

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    I sanded up to 220 before painting. I very lightly rubbed the 220 over it between coats by hand.

    I used fiberglass resin I had laying around to fill most of the spider cracks before sanding and you can't even tell they were there. I think this will be a durable fix for them, but no promises. It's not really how resin is supposed to be used haha. The spider cracks that I didn't fill were not hidden by the paint at all. I wish I had primed just for that reason.

    That was all on the bottom of my boat. On the top I rolled on a primer, but didn't tip it and didn't sand it very well (I was in a hurry). The top paint came put very rough because of this. I'm gonna have to sand it smooth and repaint eventually because I want it glossy and good looking like the bottom.
     
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  12. douglas_zargham

    douglas_zargham Member

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    i filled the cracks, scratches and gouges on top with a mixture of epoxy and faring filler and sanded the repairs smooth with a palm sander. i did all my in-between sanding with 220 (or maybe it ever-so-lightly with 150 - i cant remember), and then cleaned it with tack cloth and denatured alcohol. i sprayed on a coat of primer, sanded lightly, then a coat of blue. i had the thinning proportion wrong and the setting on my sprayer wrong so the paint came out flat and uneven. so i sanded lightly again and got it right the second time. i sprayed the stripe last - two coats white over blue. makes an old boat look new. The final result is totally dependent upon meticulous surface preparation. IMG_5074.JPG IMG_5700.JPG
     
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  13. dator643

    dator643 Member

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    Holy crap! That's a sexy boat! :eek:
     
  14. baseman

    baseman On the Water

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    Rustoleum Topside says to use it above the waterline. Does it work as well on the hull?
     
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  15. brianZ71

    brianZ71 Member

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    only matters on a boat that is left in the water long term. It works great on sunfish hulls.
     
  16. douglas_zargham

    douglas_zargham Member

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    ha! thanks - it does wonders for me posing around the harbor bar.

    red one in the background will get the same stripe asymmetrically off to one side - if i ever get around to it.
     
  17. Light and Variable Winds

    Light and Variable Winds Well-Known Member

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    With Rustoleum, I got "glossy" on the bottom of the hull. 'Surprised to see the pattern of the fiberglass mat come up! That can't be good for speed through the water. :confused:

    I don't think Rustoeum ever "sets-up", and that's why it's good for keeping rust away on metal surfaces.
     
  18. Zrtsixx

    Zrtsixx Member

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    I used Rustoleum on the deck. After the first coat of primer I waited 24 hours. Temp was in the mid 60's. But I learned to do the coats early in the morning, before it warmed up too much. After the paint was no longer tacky, I set the boat out in the sunshine until sundown. I also tried to keep the coats on the thin side. A power sander between each coat with 220 made the sanding go a lot faster. After one primer coat and two top coats, I was ready to put on the stripes. I used another paint on the bottom, but I prefer the Rustoleum Topcoat - lower price, available at Lowes and seemed easier to use.
     
  19. Rob C.

    Rob C. Member

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    Did you guys who rolled it on thin it with anything? I did the first coat of Topside over the primer and it did not turn out well at all. The paint went on thick and was hard to spread out with the roller. Tipping didn't seem to improve the situation. end result is not glossy at all. Some areas are so tough it actually looks like nonskid. LOL

    Does anyone know if you can paint a polyurethane paint like brightside over it once it is hard or will I need to strip it all off down to bare gelcoat and start over?
     
  20. douglas_zargham

    douglas_zargham Member

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    I had that problem with spraying to the point my first coat of primer came out like a splotchy 'orange peel' drywall finish due to lack of appropriate thinning - i was discouraged but eventually sanded it down mechanically a week later after my wounded ego was repaired and my ambition was back.

    I think i ultimately found that 25% to 30% thinning with xylene worked the best for my sprayer, but you have to test test test your mixture to make sure its not too runny. i'm sure that a lower percentage would work with a roller - the can says something like 15% - i'd start there. and i cannot stress enough that paint will reveal any imperfections in your substrate, so faring and sanding make all the difference before you apply paint. i can say from experience that you can sand down what you messed up so far - i used a $14 el-cheapo palm sander and successively finer grades of sandpaper until i fixed my screw up. oh, and use a mask.

    the end result when you get rustoleum right is shiny but not super shiny, but it gets real reflective and beads beautifully when wet - i'll see if i can dig up a picture - you'll love it if you take the time.
     

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