dougiefresh
New Member
I got a used rudder (new style) from a friend which I want to use on my pre-1972 hull. What parts do I need to do the conversion? Can you buy the inspection port and gudgeon and reinforcing plate seperate from the $385 kit?
Rudder conversion
- Thread starter dougiefresh
- Start date
supercub
Member
Yes, you can buy the parts seperately. I use a Viking 5" port, centered about 6" back from the rear edge (you have to remove the wood backing block inside). Get a cat bag when you do, it can hold your sunscreen and wallet. I think the cheapest way to get the epoxy filler to go between the backer plate and transom is to use the West Systems 101-6 Repair kit, it has all you need and a little more for those other minor repairs. You will also need some silicon, screws and tools to finish the job. Yahoo Sunfish Sailor had the instructions for the upgrade in the Files section.
Hey Supercub,
Your postings have been very helpful to me in the past when I was contemplating a rudder upgrade last year. Well, I'm ready to make it happen and I've been all over the Sunfish Sailor site (including files section) and can't find the section that you mention. I'm planning on using my old mohogany rudder in the conversion, so all I really need is the hardware. Any tips on where I can obtain these parts?
Thanks for your great info in the past...When I log on I always smile when I see the bi-winger come in to view!
Your postings have been very helpful to me in the past when I was contemplating a rudder upgrade last year. Well, I'm ready to make it happen and I've been all over the Sunfish Sailor site (including files section) and can't find the section that you mention. I'm planning on using my old mohogany rudder in the conversion, so all I really need is the hardware. Any tips on where I can obtain these parts?
Thanks for your great info in the past...When I log on I always smile when I see the bi-winger come in to view!
Wayne
Member Emeritus
Peg - If you don't find the file you want just post a message and ask. You'll get lots of friendly assistance. 
supercub
Member
Peg,
The file in SF Sailor is located Files > • SUNFISH • > Repair Guides > Rudder Upgrade . Other info concerning the rudder upgrade/conversion are on the same page. Your plan on using the old rudder can be done, BUT, the rudder heads are shaped differently and you would have to borrow a current rudder to trace the shape, cut and refinish at least the area modified and you end up with a shorter rudder. The rules section on the Class Home page have the diagrams and measurements as seen in the attachments. All the parts are available separately thru any Vanguard dealer. One item not shown in the diagrams is the location of the spring post. You might also to to contact Herb or post a wanted ad on this forum. As Wayne said, ask your questions and someone will get back to you.
The plane in my avitar is actually a modified Piper Supercub with clipped wings, shortened fuselage and a 200 hp engine for areobatic flying. I am glad you thought it was a bi-plane because I am currently working on a R/C model Waco YMF bi-plane.
The file in SF Sailor is located Files > • SUNFISH • > Repair Guides > Rudder Upgrade . Other info concerning the rudder upgrade/conversion are on the same page. Your plan on using the old rudder can be done, BUT, the rudder heads are shaped differently and you would have to borrow a current rudder to trace the shape, cut and refinish at least the area modified and you end up with a shorter rudder. The rules section on the Class Home page have the diagrams and measurements as seen in the attachments. All the parts are available separately thru any Vanguard dealer. One item not shown in the diagrams is the location of the spring post. You might also to to contact Herb or post a wanted ad on this forum. As Wayne said, ask your questions and someone will get back to you.
The plane in my avitar is actually a modified Piper Supercub with clipped wings, shortened fuselage and a 200 hp engine for areobatic flying. I am glad you thought it was a bi-plane because I am currently working on a R/C model Waco YMF bi-plane.
Attachments
supercub
Member
Thanks, Supercub,
I'm off and running! Will let you know how I make out. After seeing the comparison pictures that you sent, my husband (who is a woodworker) thinks we should build a new rudder so we don't compromise the amount of wood I'll have in the water. Your diagrams were very helpful, I think we can do this!
Do you pilot the Piper Supercub with acrobatics yourself and did you do the revisions to the wings and fuselage? We live near the Woodbine Airport in New Jersey and sometimes we can see acrobatic planes over the Tuckahoe River that we live on.
Please send a pic of your bi-winger I sure would like to see it.
I'm off and running! Will let you know how I make out. After seeing the comparison pictures that you sent, my husband (who is a woodworker) thinks we should build a new rudder so we don't compromise the amount of wood I'll have in the water. Your diagrams were very helpful, I think we can do this!
Do you pilot the Piper Supercub with acrobatics yourself and did you do the revisions to the wings and fuselage? We live near the Woodbine Airport in New Jersey and sometimes we can see acrobatic planes over the Tuckahoe River that we live on.
Please send a pic of your bi-winger I sure would like to see it.
supercub
Member
Jake,
No problem with the bag even when turned turtle. The only time I had any problem was when I had a leak in the hull (since fixed) and I saved my wallet and remote door lock by sticking them in a ziplock bag in the cat bag before hand. I do recommend using a ziplock as additional protection for wallets, remotes, phones and any thing else that needs to stay dry.
No problem with the bag even when turned turtle. The only time I had any problem was when I had a leak in the hull (since fixed) and I saved my wallet and remote door lock by sticking them in a ziplock bag in the cat bag before hand. I do recommend using a ziplock as additional protection for wallets, remotes, phones and any thing else that needs to stay dry.
mike4947
Member
I will agree with cubbie on the port sealing and not letting any water in, but like he said use a ziplock bag for stuff as the cat bag itself is not water proof and anything inside it will see dampness, especially if you keep a tool or two in there and like me are too cheap to buy stainless...LOL
Gail
24186
What's missing from your discussion is the external mounting plate and internal backing plate for mounting a new style rudder cheek system. You should be able to find all of the parts used (except the fasteners, but stainless parts at the hardware store are just a couple bucks, and GE silicone caulk is a few more). You'll also need Marine-Tex or another 2-part product to fill the hull and deck holes from the old brass mounting parts. I touched up a red deck with a spot of red paint over cured Marine-Tex about 10 years ago and it still looks great. If your deck/hull are white, it blends right in. Good luck!
Hello all. I just finished (mostly) the rudder conversion for my old Sunfish and did it on the cheap. The rudder blade modification was the trickiest, but if you have a little woodworking experience and some epoxy it ain't rocket science. I did as previously mentioned and borrowed a newer rudder as a template. This solved the spring post location quandry as well. To do it right you will have to add a small wedge-shaped piece of mahogony to the aft edge of the blade behind the spring post and fair it in. I epoxied this on, faired it in and revarnished the whole thing. You will need to make a new tiller and add an extension. You could use the old tiller and turn it up on edge, but it wont look as good as just reshaping a piece of hardwood, sanding and varnishing. I also just epoxied (with a thickened mixture) hardwood blocks for backing plates to the inside of the transom and used stainless fender washers to spread out the load. All I had to buy was the springs, spring post, grudgeon (a friend gave me some old aluminum rudder cheeks that he had replaced with the plastic ones) and the inspection port with fasteners.
I haven't done the tiller extension yet. A new one is around 40 or 50 bucks. However the little flexible part can be bought for about $10. I was thinking of buying that and using the handle end from an old fishing rod (heck, its just a fiberglass tube with a foam handle) or the end of a carbon fiber golf club.
Where there's a will there's a way.
Good luck.
Regards,
Paul
I haven't done the tiller extension yet. A new one is around 40 or 50 bucks. However the little flexible part can be bought for about $10. I was thinking of buying that and using the handle end from an old fishing rod (heck, its just a fiberglass tube with a foam handle) or the end of a carbon fiber golf club.
Where there's a will there's a way.
Good luck.
Regards,
Paul