Rope Type

What type of rope do you use for control lines?

  • Polyester core Polyester sheath

    Votes: 2 13.3%

  • Spectra core Polyester sheath

    Votes: 5 33.3%

  • Spectra core Multi-Filiment Poly sheath

    Votes: 5 33.3%

  • Solid MFP Multi-Filiment Poly

    Votes: 1 6.7%

  • Whatever is cheapest

    Votes: 2 13.3%
  • Total voters
    15
well, i'm one of those have lots of money people, so i normally do spectra. Vang, you REALLY need spectra, outhaul, not so much, cunningham, not necessary, but would be nice, main, not really, as it is so long.
 
Phantom, wanna send some of that money this way? Oh, BTW you site is looking really good ;).
 
Marlow D12 2mm (12 strand dyneema) for primary purchases and 5mm dyneema with polyester outer for secondary lines. Rooster Polilite for the mainsheet.
 
I really don't like rooster rope, I sailed a friends boat who had it and I hated it, it was too small and didn't have a very good feel.
 
It is quite hard, but does soften after a while. The thin diameter reduces friction and makes the sail easier to let out at the top mark.
 
what's big deal with this dyneema stuff?

i have no problem with the 15' of spectra they get with the new boats
 
But by holding the boom out, you can't move to adjust trim, move to kite the rig above the boat and keep the boat upright. How do you sail fast downwind while holding the boom out?
 
I sit on the windward side in front of the cockpit holding onto the boom and dagger board, it works pretty well. You need to be quick if a death roll starts.
 
On the long leeward legs, i get myself into a nice rythym. I find that when there is about 8 knts. or more of steady breeze, the sail will stay filled and you should not have to hold it out that much (unless, of course, the wind dies or there is a wind shift). I also heel the boat to windward at maybe a 30 degree angle and that works wonders for keeping the boom out as well as reducing the wetted area. At that angle, most of the time, the daggerboard seems to rest on the side of the trunk so you should not have to hold that either. I then position myself so im sitting practically next to the daggerboard truck on that included surface with just the tips of my fingers holding ther tiller. It is good to sit as far forword as possible so the transom is not in the water therefore creating drag, and the boat will almost steer itself the farther forward the weight is.
 
Nice one macwas16! Few extra notes: windward heeling is called kiting and as well as all the benefits you listed, it gets the sail's centre of effort over the centre of the boat, balancing the rig's power on both sides of the boat, leading to a neutral helm and so less rudder drag.

When heeling, never heel more than 20º because the side decking lip starts to enter the water soon after 20º and starts to increase the interface friction. When heeling to windward, heel so the side lip is just above the waterline.

The daggerboard should stay where you put it, if not: adjust the brake and tighten the shockcord.

Sit forward in light winds, but as soon as you think you can plane, move back to get the bow up and the hull on to the plane.

See my post on by-the-lee in the other downwind thread for details of other fast downwind techniques...
 
Outhaul, C'ham, vang, controls: 5/32 Maffioli Swiftcord - I think this is a Spectra (Dyneema?) and Cordura blend

Outhaul block to clew: 1/8 (?) vectran

Traveler: 3/16 Dyneema (something "gucci" from APS)

Mainsheet: G&B something, about 6mm. I prefer G&B PowerCord, but can't seem to find it anymore.
 
Note about traveller lines: you need ultra hard wearing outers because non-roller carbon (with steel plates) tillers used by most sea sailors will wear the lines fast. Most lines will wear alloy tillers so not so much of a problem with those.
 
main sheet dia.....

7mm Polilite
Polilite at APS

This is what the new Vanguards come with, it's in between 1/4" and 5/16"

1/4" is good in light air, but not as comfortable to hold in hvy air as 5/16 (which is just a little too heavy in light air freely ease on runs....
 
A thin mainsheet (6-7mm) runs through the plain bearing blocks more easily so the boom will move in and out more easily and is lighter so doesn't drop into the water in light winds when the boom is a long way out. However, a thicker mainsheet will be easier on the hands. I use 7mm but its really a matter of personal opinion.
 
Because I am so young and reffing hockey only brings in so much money, I go for the cheapest.
 
Rooster has a 9mm rope that might make a good heavy-air main. At roughly $1.75/ft, I won't try it until someone else says it's great.

I didn't like the 7mm Rooster at first, but after switching back to what I was using and trying one or two others, I've developed a new respect for it. It has a bit of a learning curve associated with it, I think.
 
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