Repositioning halyard cleat

R

Randy K

New Member
I recently acquired a 1972 Sunfish that seems structually sound but needs cosmetic work. In removing the halyard cleat to clean it, one screw broke off in the hole. I'm guessing there's a backing plate on the other side of the deck, so it would seem that my easist fix is to move the cleat forward or back a half inch or so, drill new holes, and fill the old ones. Can someone who's looked under the deck of an older boat confirm that there really is a backing plate and give me some idea what size it is? I'd hate to move the cleat just a little too far and hit nothing but air when I drill through the deck. Thanks.

Randy K.
 
Randy,
On the bottom side of the deck is a wood block, glued and fibreglassed in possition. See Strumlo's post above and Mike Killpatrick (http://mikekilpatrick.homestead.com/dollies.html) has a picture on page 3 of his website (sunfish section). You can reposition the halyard by the 1/2" (no more) you want and fill the remaining holes with Marine Tex. :) An alternate method is to remove the existing srew with a screw extrator or hollow drill bit (a steel or hard brass tube, just larger than the screw with the edges sharpened like a saw) and thru bolt the halyard cleat with #10 Marine Stainless Steel Oval Head Bolts. Follow Mike's directions for installing a 6" inspection port behind the splashrail if you need to. You will need to get you arm inside up to the shoulder (its a long reach) to put the washers and locknuts (nylon insert type) on the end of the bolts. Thru bolting makes a more secure fastening, not dependent on wood screws to hold. Plus the inspection port allows you to check for leaks. :) A third method is to follow Dave Luckenback's (of Sailing Texas) instructions for reinstalling a bow handle (http://www.sailingtexas.com/chowtoresetboweye.html) if you do not want to install the inspection port. Good Luck.
 
here is a picture of the block with the cleat. ill leave it up to you as to what to make of it.
 

Attachments

  • BackBlock.jpg
    BackBlock.jpg
    39.4 KB · Views: 142
My suggestion would be to remove the wood block entirely as it is subject to rot over time and they are not fastened all that well to the underside of the deck. When you remove the block it will bring the screw with it or you can use the block to unscrew the broken off piece from under the deck. Replace the wood block with an aluminum plate held in place with some 3M 4200. Reattach the deck cleat in the original location with some new SS machine screws and lock nuts. You wont ever have the problem again.
 
Yet another suggestion. Screw a standard horn cleat in the side of the mast with self taping s.s. screws about 2' up from the deck and use that cleat as the primary load carrying cleat. This retrofit is allowed by current class racing rules and reduces the down thrust of the mast that will eventually eat away the bottom of the mast step leading to mast tube leaking and structural problems (been there, did that, bought the T-shirt.) At this pooint the deck mounted cleat becomes less important as all it does is secure the mast to the deck in the event of a capsize as well as serve as the vang cleat.

Alan Glos
Cazenovia, NY
 
Thanks. I moved the cleat forward 3/8 inch, and it holds fine. I plan to install an inspection port over the winter, when I can get inside and do a better job, but I wanted a quick fix for now to get the boat back out on the water.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Back
Top