Removing deck from hull

C

Cliff C

New Member
I noticed that a number of members have mentioned that they have opened a laser and I have run into a challenge with my newest lawn ornament. My newly old Laser ZFSA16661M811 has separated almost all the way around the deck. Hull and deck seem fairly rigid and in reasonably good shape. I would like to take the deck off and can manage the mast post and centerboard slot. Separating the cockpit drain area from the hull is the issue. It looks like it should be cut where it exits the hull. This one must have been built during the bankruptcy process as there are fenders inside the stern for floatation. You can imagine my amazement when I ran a scope up the stern hull drain and saw a bright yellow fender. Have you or anyone really opened one up completely? Anyone have any suggestions other than tossing it. It was a gift from a friend??? and my 8 year old daughter is in love with it. She asked me to please fix it as only a little girl can. Any direction would be appreciated.

Sorry about the re-post, I realized my prior subject was too vague.

Best,

Cliff
 
You probably know, but I'll mention just to be sure, that the brass or plastic fitting in the drain hole must be removed to separate the hull and deck. Others will have to advise further, since I never had to separate the hull and deck. One of my old Lasers did suffer from significant separation at the gunwale, but I was able to repair that and avoided taking it apart. Unless you need to, I wouldn't separate the thing, just repair the seam.
 
Thanks. Yes I am aware of the brass fitting but it never hurts to make sure. Unfortunately during production they sealed some heavy fenders or as some would say bumpers in the hull. Additionally 3/4 of the deck is loose. I just don't think I could ever get a decent seal unless I do the complete job..

Thanks,

Cliff
 
Cliff, I'd reconsider your plan. Its quite easy to repair the gunwale - clean out old adhesive, etc. with Dremel, pour in new epoxy or polyester. You should find more detailed info in this forum. If you are sure the bumpers are waterlogged, I think I would install an inspection port to allow cutting them up for removal. The whole thing should be a one day job. Its not clear to me how separating will allow a better repair of the gunwale.
 
I agree with Rob, and you can get a great bond/seal again again w/o separating hull/deck. It's a matter or making sure as much of the old bog is removed as possible, the area is dry etc. The same things you would do if the deck were off, without the hassle of re-bonding mast step, daggerboard slot and cockpit.

Removing the fenders (any chance you can post up a photo of them ?) would be easy with an inspection port as mentioned above

There are a few threads posted here showing the deck removal process, a search will point you to them, if you are truly determined
 
Cliff, if you can tolerate still another comment from me :), an important consideration is the mast to hull attachment. You can achieve a much stronger connection by fiberglassing that area through an inspection port in the front deck compared to trying to imitate the factory attachment method (many failures of this attachment in older boats). You will find lots of posts on this forum about this - it's a vulnerable place on a Laser. Another reason not to separate the hull and deck.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Rob Hair said:
Cliff, I'd reconsider your plan. Its quite easy to repair the gunwale - clean out old adhesive, etc. with Dremel, pour in new epoxy or polyester. You should find more detailed info in this forum. If you are sure the bumpers are waterlogged, I think I would install an inspection port to allow cutting them up for removal. The whole thing should be a one day job. Its not clear to me how separating will allow a better repair of the gunwale.
Click to expand...

Hi Rob,
You make a good argument for not removing the deck. If you were to place an inspection port in the stern I assume you would place it in the cockpit above the drain? Another reason I was thinking about lifting the deck is it looks like they used a ton of material to mate the deck to the hull. It looked like a brick and mortar job around the bow and I swear the boat weighs 200lbs.

Thanks!
 
49208 said:
I agree with Rob, and you can get a great bond/seal again again w/o separating hull/deck. It's a matter or making sure as much of the old bog is removed as possible, the area is dry etc. The same things you would do if the deck were off, without the hassle of re-bonding mast step, daggerboard slot and cockpit.

Removing the fenders (any chance you can post up a photo of them ?) would be easy with an inspection port as mentioned above

There are a few threads posted here showing the deck removal process, a search will point you to them, if you are truly determined
Click to expand...

I appreciate the advice. I'll put an inspection port in the cockpit and take a look at my options before committing either way. I must say I am concerned about getting a really good bond and cleaning out the broken chunks of epoxy or mastic or what ever they used on my boat. I think I can get a picture with scope if not I'll do it through the inspection port.

Thanks again for your advice.

Cliff
 
49208 said:
I agree with Rob, and you can get a great bond/seal again again w/o separating hull/deck. It's a matter or making sure as much of the old bog is removed as possible, the area is dry etc. The same things you would do if the deck were off, without the hassle of re-bonding mast step, daggerboard slot and cockpit.

Removing the fenders (any chance you can post up a photo of them ?) would be easy with an inspection port as mentioned above

There are a few threads posted here showing the deck removal process, a search will point you to them, if you are truly determined
Click to expand...

BTW, I found a tread or so about removing the deck but all seemed to be archived and couldn't find any supporting info.

OK. It is getting fun now. Drilled an inspection port in the deck near the mast, off to the side and 6" behind the mast support as suggested. The 4.5 inch core that came out was gel-coat decking, a foam core and a fiberglass encasement layer. Total thickness 1/2 inch approx. The foam core was rigid but water logged. apparently I found one of my my weight problems. Now it looks like the deck needs to come off as I am guessing the boat was stored on the shore below the high water mark or under the bay. I would just chop it up and take it to the dump but my daughter is still in love with it and I'm curious. Anyone ever replace any foam core to a deck and re-bond it? If so, what product did you use? Amazingly enough, the deck is still quite rigid, though heavy. The foam can be easily separated from deck fiberglass gel-coat layer (on the inspection core). Who knows, maybe this is the only wet section (ha, ha ha, just crack myself up sometimes).

I really need to send my buddy a note when I confirm my suspicions.

Hope everyone is having a great day!

Best regards,

Cliff
 
You can actually dry the core without much effort http://sailingforums.com/threads/removing-deck.2872/#post-17585
(If you view that whole thread you'll see the original poster was also looking to remove the deck) Add a second inspection port on the aft deck, just off the centerline, halfway between transom and back edge of cockpit, which will allow good air circulation, easily remove the fenders that you say are inside, as well as let you check on the cockpit/hull connection and the plywood backing plates on the rudder gudgeons

Depending on how wet the core is, expect to let it dry for a week or longer, but it will dry. As long the fiberglass skins were still bonded to the foam core in the piece you cut out, the bonds in the laminate should still be fine. (If the skins were separated from the core or the core itself was split, it's a different story, and not a happy one.)

You will also want to make sure the boat is watertight once you get to the point where it's dry and you are ready to go sailing - search for "soapy water test" here
 
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