Padeye and Camcleat versus 'the Hook' versus Ratchet Block?

Does this seem about right for a shopping list to convert from old to new gudgeon system? Looks like I'd be in for about 270 USD sourcing across multiple sites and re-using the current rudder blade and tiller parts.

rudder head with pintle
external gudgeon
backer plate w/ hump
access hatch + screws
2 springs
spring pin post
rudder pivot bolt kit
sealant
machine screws, lock nuts
 
Tops said:
Does this seem about right for a shopping list to convert from old to new gudgeon system? Looks like I'd be in for about 270 USD sourcing across multiple sites and re-using the current rudder blade and tiller parts.

rudder head with pintle
external gudgeon
backer plate w/ hump
access hatch + screws
2 springs
spring pin post
rudder pivot bolt kit
sealant
machine screws, lock nuts
Click to expand...
Using a METAL rudder head?
 
L&VW said:
Using a METAL rudder head?
Click to expand...
No, this would be using a plastic one, Nautos p/n10126:
"Plastic Sunfish rudder head attaches to the rudder blade to make a complete rudder.
A pintle pin is included. Tension springs are not included."
My other boat has a metal one. Is the metal one more better?
 
Tops said:
No, this would be using a plastic one, Nautos p/n10126:
"Plastic Sunfish rudder head attaches to the rudder blade to make a complete rudder.
A pintle pin is included. Tension springs are not included."
My other boat has a metal one. Is the metal one more better?
Click to expand...
A metal rudder head is nearly impossible to break; however, a saltwater environment can corrode it into uselessness.

You're in Minnesota, so I'd definitely opt for metal. A used one would last indefinitely and include the springs--which are "lifetime" stainless steel--unless you lose one!
:confused:
 
My opinion, these boats are not rare antiques. You don’t score points or enhance its value by keeping it all original like a classic car. There is a reason the original design parts changed - they were inferior to the upgrades.

Photos:

Ratchet or plain block with integral cam cleat. The crappy plywood is my roll around dolly inserted from below.

Throw away the original rudder mounting. I glassed in internal backing plates and reenforced the transom. The usually furnished aluminum casting backer does not fit over the internal hump for the vertical bronze bolt of the original bracket. My DIY rudder is vertical. A pleasure to use and easy for young grandkids. It can be easily fitted in rough waves.

Replace the ancient self bailer. This one works. All who sail it now love their dry feet and not hauling 50# of water around.

Obviously needed to add the port for; rudder upgrade, inspection access, had pump bailer. (No transom drain). Buy a 4” port made of ABS, not polyethylene. Use Marintex epoxy putty or equal to make the ring permanent and level with respect to the curved deck, no screws. Do yourself a favor and get the proper hole saw.

I also added a port by the splash so I could repair the CB trunk and the halyard deck pulley and cleat. I always use aluminum backer plates glassed from inside. Wood rots.

next year maybe time for the deck to hull joint resealing.
 

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One more thing. Replace the bridle for the main sheet with dynema. See the picture above. The metal one made a mess of my varnish
 
I have been told that tiller and rudder blade are not forward compatible either.

NIcholson58, I like the forked wooden tiller.
 
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