MiniFish Frozen Drain Plug ideas

Ginny F

New Member
We have recently scored a beautiful reno of a 1978 Sunfish.

In looking for “spare parts”, we have landed a 1978 MiniFish, and plan to start a regatta in our backyard lake.

***The MiniFish drain plug is corroded and frozen. What is the best fix? ***

(Also, there is a tiny single hole center deck in front of the daggerboard behind the boom. On the deck is a cleat, but no fairlead. Is a single hole likely to have been for a fair lead which is now missing?)

Thanks for your help! Love the prior thread mentioning ice machines, fridges and boom boxes…but we have those already installed. Just needing the bare bones ideas!

Thanks!
 

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Mine was froze up when I got my minifish too. I hit it with copious amounts of WD-40, waited 30 minutes. Then put the widest flat blade bit I had in a small impact driver and it came loose. Big screwdriver at an angle with a hammer has worked for me before too, just be careful you don't chip the brass so much that you can't reuse it. Supposedly there is a way to drill? pry? the whole thing out but I've never have to and don't remember exactly how to do so.
 
Mine was froze up when I got my minifish too. I hit it with copious amounts of WD-40, waited 30 minutes. Then put the widest flat blade bit I had in a small impact driver and it came loose. Big screwdriver at an angle with a hammer has worked for me before too, just be careful you don't chip the brass so much that you can't reuse it. Supposedly there is a way to drill? pry? the whole thing out but I've never have to and don't remember exactly how to do so.
We are struggling with the “chippy” plug. Appreciate the ideas and we will give it another go.
 
We are struggling with the “chippy” plug. Appreciate the ideas and we will give it another go.
Any idea what the emblem or “thing” that created the tiny hole behind the mast on our boat might be? We can see blurry pictures of something there on other Minis on most posts, but still can’t quite make it out.
 
We are struggling with the “chippy” plug. Appreciate the e large screwdriver ideas and we will give it another go.
Try a small amount of PB Blaster ($8), let it dissolve impurities for 30 minutes, then try the large screwdriver mentioned above.

A Sunfish I acquired had a 3/16" hole drilled through the plug. While I was unable to remove the plug (even using a reverse-cut drill-bit), the hole allowed condensed water to dribble out when stored as Alcort suggested.
 
**New drainplug and daggerboard trunk repair ideas, please and thank you! **

We have tried all the loosening of the original plug ideas to no avail. We are doing our most to not put in inspection ports and considering adding a new drain plug in the same position as the original, but on the opposite side of the boat. A tiny bit of water is getting in when we wash the boat through the aforementioned 3mm rivet hole where we believe a nameplate serial number used to reside? And possibly through the daggerboard trunk. Once we establish a new drain plug we figure we will seal the pinhole, and then see how much water we are taking on via other potential leaks?

Is there a preferred new drain plug, or any old ones to be found for replacement? We have been cautioned against putting a new drain plug in the transom below the waterline (which makes sense). We believe that we have some water coming in likely around the daggerboard trunk and definitely want a drain to allow any water getting in to get back out as well as repair that area!

Any, and all thoughts on next steps are appreciated!
 
As pointed out you need a very big blade screwdriver full width of the slot. Lots of spray. Put a big adjustable wrench on the screwdriver and try turning the screwdriver with the wrench. Start with small pressure in on direction and then the other then spray let it sit. Keep repeating slowly it will work loose just dont rush.
 
Mine, the old brass/bronze ones, were stuck in horribly on the boat known as Ghost. After PB Blaster and several attempts... II ended up trying a left-handed drill bit in hopes of sacrificing the plugs but saving the threaded inserts on the boat. The assemblies got warm during the drilling and the bond broke between the boat and insert. I took the works out and finished the extraction with heat from a plumber's torch followed by an easy-out with the part clamped. I replaced the 1/2-13 UNC plugs with stainless socket headed set screws. I epoxied the inserts back into the boat. Next time the boat is deck up I should exercise them: take them out, grease, and put them back.

Picture is from just after taking off the masking tape from the boat and insert and starting the new plug. I have since sanded and faired it a bit. One would not have to use so much epoxy, I had a colored and oversized look in mind. Yes, the starboard side is green... :)

tops_ghost_drain1.jpg
 
Some other options--back when I had a Porpoise II in my stable--and a custom avatar to match:

 

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