Laser 2 questions...

trist007

Member
Just got a Laser 2 and I have basic and even stupid questions

1. What is the point of the 2 side shrouds(the one that use the spreader) if they simply connect back to the mast?

2. What is this thing in the rear within the cockpit?

3. There's no bailer. How does one deal with water coming in from waves etc? Sponge?

4. How do you secure the boom onto the mast? I see the cylindrical fitting on the mast that slides into the boom but what else needs to be attached to keep the boom from coming out of the cylindrical fitting?

5. The rudder has two pins that slide into the holes at the rear of the hull. Then you put the tiller in to prevent the rudder from moving back. But what keeps the two pins from coming out? Do I simply tie the rope from the rudder under and over the bracket where the pins went into? It just seems like any uplifting force would remove the rudder from those two pins. Or am I missing something?

6. Does the tiller + tiller extension go under the traveller or over?

7. For those that single hand how do you step the mast by your self?

8. For those that single hand how do you deal with the main and jib sheets and the tiller at the same time?
I'm sure I'll have more.

-Tristan
 
1. What is the point of the 2 side shrouds(the one that use the spreader) if they simply connect back to the mast?
They're called diamond stays (or just diamonds). They keep the mast from bending sideways.

2. What is this thing in the rear within the cockpit?
More specific details please. Pictures preferably.

3. There's no bailer. How does one deal with water coming in from waves etc? Sponge?
There definitely should be a standard Andersen bailer (http://www.sailboats.co.uk/laser-2-regatta-stainless-steel-self-bailer) at the back of the cockpit. Isn't there even a flat spot for mounting one? (More pictures please.)

4. How do you secure the boom onto the mast? I see the cylindrical fitting on the mast that slides into the boom but what else needs to be attached to keep the boom from coming out of the cylindrical fitting?
The vang. But there really isn't anything that wants to pull it out. With the slightest vang tension there's only forward pressure at the gooseneck.

5. The rudder has two pins that slide into the holes at the rear of the hull. Then you put the tiller in to prevent the rudder from moving back. But what keeps the two pins from coming out? Do I simply tie the rope from the rudder under and over the bracket where the pins went into? It just seems like any uplifting force would remove the rudder from those two pins. Or am I missing something?
Gravity is what holds the rudder in place. In case the whole thing turns upside down, there should be a simple locking device mounted either on the transom (like in the Laser) or the rudder head. On the Laser 2s that I have seen, it's been incorporated in the lower rudder fitting on the transom: http://www.sailboats.co.uk/laser-2-regatta-lower-gudgeon

6. Does the tiller + tiller extension go under the traveller or over?
Under! (And the extension doesn't stay there - it points forward to your hand that holds it.)

7. For those that single hand how do you step the mast by your self?

8. For those that single hand how do you deal with the main and jib sheets and the tiller at the same time?
You get a crew. This is what I tried to say in an earlier post.
 
I solo sailed a Capri 14.2 for several years. It is surprisingly easy to handle if you practice. My priority was first to mind the tiller and mainsheet. I trimmed the jib last; of course you really need to plan ahead your sequence and make sure the jib sheet will not foul in a tack, since a backwinded jib is pretty much a recipe for a capsize.

Make sure you have a rope ladder or something similar that allow you to get back in the boat after a capsize. That was the closest I ever came to drowning, when I didn't have a crew to help pull me into the boat or to offer a scoop recovery.

Also, make sure you have a cleated mainsheet. In all, you'll love it once you get the hang of soloing.

Look on the Capri 14 forum (link at the top of our pages here) for tips and maybe even find one of my older posts. Good luck! -- Ed
 
Singlehanding a non-singlehanded boat can sure be great - occasionally. We have even had singlehanded Lightning races here, with spinnakers and all... But it's really just a stunt, a joke, something to do for a change once a year. It would be no fun to do it all the time.

You just can't ignore the laws of physics. One-design dinghies are simply designed around a certain number and size of sailors. If you go outside that box, you're in for trouble, or boredom, or at least you're limited to certain wind strengths. It's not the thing to do especially if you're learning to sail a type of boat new to you, or a new skill like trapezing.

So now that you already have a doublehanded boat, the next thing you need is a crew. (Am I repeating myself?) Even better would be to get a skipper! Find someone who is the right size (you don't want too much weight in a Laser 2) and at least somewhat experienced with Laser 2s, 420s or other similar boats. He or she can literally show you the ropes, and your learning curve will be much steeper and less painful than trying to figure it all out by yourself - and/or asking people halfway round the planet through a forum.
 
Dear trist007,

Youtube is a beautiful thing. Watch these two simple videos on rigging a Laser and a Capri 14.2, the explore from there.


 
Nice videos (the Laser one has been discussed here many times before), but they won't help much (if at all) with a Laser 2. Try these ones instead: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCwINkBEHeLtEcitfD3DPIlA

... how do you step the mast by your self?
I've been thinking about this, because it's useful if your skipper/crew (or anyone else) isn't around. What I would try is the technique described in the old PSE rigging instructions (http://www.laser2sailing.org.uk/sites/laser2sailing.org.uk/files/documents/Laser2UKRiggingManual.pdf) on pages 5 & 6, plus a line tied to the end of the forestay and led through the bow fitting to a jib cleat. When you've pushed the mast up you take the slack out of that line and then attach the forestay. Reverse when taking the mast down.
 
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