How to dry a Laser hull

Discussion in 'Laser Talk' started by Greg Morrissey, Jan 13, 2013.

  1. Greg Morrissey

    Greg Morrissey Member

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    Between now and jun the average tempature should be around 10 degrees celcius and then around 10-15 int the summer
     
  2. sorosz

    sorosz Member

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    Was it wet with salt water or fresh? If it was salt, did it get rinsed out well? I think remaining salt helps trap moisture and makes it harder to dry out. . .
    If you have room in your shed to store your boat on the transom that might help drain any residual water. If you can keep the boat warm and keep the air flowing through it as well that should definitely do the trick.
     
  3. Greg Morrissey

    Greg Morrissey Member

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    It was salt water and I rinsed it out with warm water. I am able to store the boat on its stern but would that not damage the gunnels and gudgeon at the stern due to all the weight being focused there or does that matter.
     
  4. sorosz

    sorosz Member

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    It shouldn't damage the boat - I believe they store them that way at the factory . You need to put some blocks of wood or something down so the weight is actually on the gunnels and not the gudgeon.

    Like this, although you'd probably want it to lean the other way to maximise drainage.
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Bungo Pete

    Bungo Pete Member

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    The following is a method I found to be very effective and cheap. You need an old canister vacuum and the bag should be removed. The hose may not be long enough so you can buy a length of hardware store hose and tape it to the end of the vacuum's hose. The joint does not have to be perfectly airtight. The idea is to snake the hose into the inspection port either forward or aft as far as possible. With the vacuum running, it will suck the moist air out of the hull and dry air will be drawn into the hull via the inspection port. NOTE: Extreme Care should be taken not to block the inspection port when the vacuum is running. If it is blocked even for a second, the hull could collapse because of the pressure differential. I usually tape the hose to one side to insure maximum air flow into the hull. the good news is that it will dry the interior very fast. An hour or so with the hose forward and the same time with it snaked aft should be sufficient. Hope this helps.
     
  6. Greg Morrissey

    Greg Morrissey Member

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    Thanks for that advice it sound like a good idea. That would be very plausible for me to do. Does it need to have 2 have two inspection ports I only have one forward of the cockpit could that damage the boat.
     
  7. Bungo Pete

    Bungo Pete Member

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    Repeat - Extreme Care should be taken not to block the inspection port when the vacuum is running. If it is blocked even for a second, the hull could collapse because of the pressure differential. I usually tape the hose to one side to insure maximum air flow into the hull.

    Most household vacuums move about 120 cfm, and a quick calculation indicates that a 4" opening and minimal pressure differential will handle about three times that much. This being said, I am not there with you and it's not my boat or vaccuum, so proceed at you're own risk.
     
  8. Greg Morrissey

    Greg Morrissey Member

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    and this will fully dry out the inside of the hull with about an hour of usage. Should that remove all the moisture from the hull and get the boat back down to 55-60 kg
     
  9. Bungo Pete

    Bungo Pete Member

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    At the risk of sounding like a lawyer, I am not there with you and cannot say one way or another. If you want, try it and find out. It may take longer or it may not.
     
  10. tybee

    tybee New Member

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  11. Bungo Pete

    Bungo Pete Member

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    Interesting. Having 2 ports definitely makes it easier.
     
  12. torrid

    torrid Just sailing

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  13. Greg Morrissey

    Greg Morrissey Member

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    I also received the laser drain bushing yesterday in the post this should end my leak problem so I won't have to worry to much about getting loads of water in the boat
     
  14. Greg Morrissey

    Greg Morrissey Member

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  15. Greg Morrissey

    Greg Morrissey Member

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    What is the best way to install the self bailer to make sure there are no leaks in the screw hole.
     
  16. racinglasers

    racinglasers Member

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    Just put a dab of marine silicon sealant in the screw hole before attaching the bailer.
     
  17. Greg Morrissey

    Greg Morrissey Member

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    Would normal bathroom silicone work for sealing bath tubs etc
     
  18. racinglasers

    racinglasers Member

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    I'm sure that would work but if the tube doesn't say "marine" you won't pay as much for it!
     
  19. oztayls

    oztayls Member

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    The lack of an inspection port in the Laser is really a design flaw. There are many of these, but we still love em!
     
  20. TygerTung

    TygerTung New Member

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    You could put a bit of epoxy on the screws as you screw them in.

    What I did on my dinghy to dry it out is this:

    I have a fully decked Phoenix Class dinghy (4m plywood sailboat). It was getting a bit damp inside so I came up with this scheme.

    I got an old interior fan out of a 1992 Toyota corolla and an old computer power supply. I put an light bulb on the 5V circuit for the power supply (this is required so that you get maximum output out of the 12V circuit for some reason), and then got all the 12v lines and joined them together. I ran these into a single larger wire and put that into the fan, as well as an earth. I just used a bungy cord to hold the outlet against the inspection port at the front of the boat, and removed the drain bungs from the back.

    It seems to be blowing an impressive amount of air, you can really feel it coming out of the drain bungs at the back.

    I had that going for a day, will put it on again next weekend maybe, if I'm not out sailing.

    This seems to work well, and it didn't cost me anything as I just made the setup out of stuff which I already had lying around the house.
     

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