Hand exchange in a blow

B

bhufham

Dr Bill
I'm having trouble with the hand exchange between tiller and mainsheet in a blow. Sometimes I lose the tiller and end up in irons. When I try to hold the tiller and the sheet in the same hand I usually go real low and then have to tack up hard to get back on course. I always try to face forward on the tack, but that requires a behind the back exchange. What's the secret?:confused:
 
Facing forward during the tack is your best form. And while you're right that this necessitates a behind the back tiller/sheet exchange, note that the change should not take place until after the tack is complete. This leaves you steering behind your back (which can continue as long as necessary) and keeps the mainsheet in control in the same hand that was holding it to begin with.

To complete the exchange, use your sheet-holding hand to take the tiller extension (while still holding the sheet). Then your freed-up tiller hand takes control of the sheet.

It's probably explained better, elsewhere, or I'd have never learned it <g>.

Kevin
 
One reason you may be having trouble is your tiller extension may be too short. The stock tiller extension is about 33" long. Man of the top sailors tend to prefer extensions that are at least 42" or above, mine is 48" for example. Your extension should be at least long enough to touch your mainsheet block when bent straight forward.

As far as the hand exchange, it is something that happens after the tack...facing forward is the proper technique. I find its easiest to do the pass off when you get your body far enough forward on the new windward side of the boat, the further back you are in the boat, the tougher the hand-pass is.

You may also want to focus more on steering the boat with your body weight and sail trim more, and less with the rudder/tiller. I have some notes for you here http://www.islandwebdesign.biz/blog/archives/2006/02/sunfish_sailing.html
 
My tiller extension is the standard 33" and it does seem a bit short on a deep hike forward in boat. I have to go back to get under the boom on the tack. That's where I get tangled up on the hand exchange. In an 18+ blow sailing behind my back is tricky, but I'm new to Sunfish competition. There's a lot more room in a Thistle, my last competitive class. Thanks for the notes on steering with weight. As a windsurfer I should know these things. Bill H.
 
I usually use my cam cleat when I switch hands, even though it gives you a higher risk sailing of capsizing in strong winds it works.
 
I used to have that problem, but I think it just takes a lot of practice. Going out when the wind is really blowing is when it can be really fun. But things can turn bad really fast. After some practice, you can get quick enough with the exchange where it wont really become a big issue. My tiller extension reaches about to the ratchet block. Just short enough to clear the main sheet when its in tight.
 
One other thing overlooked about taking in heavy air is the amount of mainsheet action that should be happening throughout the tack. I would never recommend cleating during a tack.

Most people trim in the sail prior to the tack, makes the boat turn faster towards the wind. Next, as you go to "roll" the boat, it is perfectly fine to move back in the boat, it helps one duck the boom, and I find helps turn the boat at sharper angle.

The key to a successful tack though is what comes next...Once the boat is turned and sail fills on the new tack, it is very important that you let the mainsheet out (at times as much as 4 feet, many times 18"-36"). This allows you to flatten out the boat rapidly, preventing the boat from wanting to turn back towards the wind. And by moving forward during this step, it helps flatten boat even quicker, and makes hand-pass easier. Once flat, and hiking well, time to trim in appropriately.

Hope this is helpful.
 
One other thing some of us do is plant a knee in the cockpit when tacking. I would recommend knee sleeves/pads for those over 40. Nothing quite like a pebble in the kneecap when trying to tack.
 
I tried cleating in the tack. Not a good idea. Going low kept me out of irons. I think the longer tiller extension will help as well as PRACTICE! PRACTICE! PRACTICE!. Is there a way to extend my current tiller extender w/o replacing it? Thanks. Bill H.
 
bhufham said:
Is there a way to extend my current tiller extender w/o replacing it? Thanks. Bill H.
Click to expand...

People have used broken golf clubs (which can be had from pro shops) to fashion extensions.
 
If it's a wooden extension, folks have end drilled them and added length, BUt it does compromise the ash wood somewhat and heavy air might be a problem. If it's a later type with a universal joint you can buy almost any length you want. We saw one Sunfish with one of those big loop extensions they use on HUGH catamarans cut down to a short length to clear the main sheet. He said he had trouble holding a "stick" type extension.

My second Sunfish a late Pearson can without a universal joint but with what they then called a "racing extension" which was a golf club ttpe extension with a sponge handle and flattened at the other end and drilled to fit the standard wooden tiller bolt. It allowed up and down movement to some extent like a universal joint would but let the extension drop on the deck if I let go. Ended up marking the rear lip of the cockpit.

Just an FYI: wood used in tiller and extensions are ash dyed to resemble mahagany.
 
another option is to get a piece of pvc piping, attaching it to the universal joint using some kind of boat and/or glue. you can also make a grip by using tennis handle tape or by making twists in electrical tape.
 
oompanyc said:
another option is to get a piece of pvc piping, attaching it to the universal joint using some kind of boat and/or glue. you can also make a grip by using tennis handle tape or by making twists in electrical tape.
Click to expand...

Some of our club boats have that, and it really dosent work. It ends up bending if the wind gets too high. If you try it, you would need a thick walled one, and it cant be too long, otherwise it will bend. I would just spend the money and get a good one.
 
The key is to just not let go of anything. Say you're on a starboard tack (left hand on the tiller). On the basic tack, you push the tiller across and the boat starts to turn. Roll tacking aside, as the boat goes across irons, you also go across the boat. Keep everything in the original hand. Rotate as you cross, keeping your body facing forwards (so you'd rotate clockwise in this tack). Even out the rudder as you get to the other side and tack your sheet hand (right hand) and bring it back to grab the tiller. Once you do, you'll have both the tiller and the sheet in your right hand and you'll be sitting on the port side. Then you grab the sheet with your fore hand.
 
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