fairlead repair

S

squeakywaffle

New Member
I am a newbie to lasers and sailing... I bought an '84 over the summer and had a great time, but eventually I ran into a problem that is both minor and really annoying. The fairlead on the end of my boom (outhaul fairlead) is cracking around the aft rivet. The plastic is missing about 1/3 of the way around the rivet, and the other side seems to be cracking too. The problem is, it is held in with rivets, which I know nothing about and can't remove/replace.

I had to stop sailing because I didn't have time to fix it then and losing it during sailing would suck really hard.

How should I go about fixing it? I had considered just filling in the gap with some epoxy, but that obviously isn't a very good solution.
 
You will have to replace the fairlead -
Drill out the rivets with a 3/16" drill bit (you just need to drill until the heads of the rivets come off and then use a nail punch to push the rivets into the boom) If the rivet starts to spin while drilling the head off, angle the drillbit while you continue to drill..

Read the following on the rivet lengths that you will need (scroll down to the "Laser Outhaul Long Rivet" section )
http://www.apsltd.com/Tree/d90000/e88162.asp

If you decide to replace the boom end plug as well, consider thru bolting the forward end of the outhaul fairlead and the mainsheet boom bail while you have the plug out.

For the most bomb proof fairlead, you can substitute the plastic fairlead (that will crack again sometime in the future) with one of the almag (metal) traveller fairleads)
 
You'll need to replace it really. A 5mm drill (i think) should be what you need to take the top off the existing rivets, then you can take the fairlead off and knock the remainder of the rivets into the boom. They'll rattle around inside forever unless you take the end cap off so you can get them out - that is up to you :)

Somebody you know is bound to have a riveter, or you should be able to pick up a cheap & cheerful one that will suit jobs like this, and they usually have instructions on the pack. Something like this is what you need. Make sure the body of the rivet is long enough to go through the new fairlead and the boom, plus a few mm extra. A couple of pumps on the handle of the riveter and bang! Job done. :D

Loz
 
i'm having trouble with the drilling of the outhaul cam cleat. I know how to install pop rivets, but, i think teh rivet on the boom is steel, and i broke a drillbit trying to get the center out of it. Are there special steel-drilling bits??
Thanks
 
Are there special steel-drilling bits??
Click to expand...

I recently did a similar job replacing the metal mainsheet strap with plastic.

I used a large (1/4" or 3/8") cobalt drill bit and cutting fluid. I went to a
specialty tools store to get the cutting fluid (Rapid Tap).

Given that you broke a drill bit, try using a larger sized one at least 1/4".
 
trying to get the center out of it
Click to expand...
You do realize you only have to cut the head off the rivet and you don't have to drill all thru way thru it, right ?

Any decent sharp high speed drill bit will drill thru stainless.
A dull bit won't no matter what it's made of and no matter how much cutting oil you throw on it.

Buy a new 3/16" bit

Don't drill at high speed in metal either - You'll overheat the bit and ruin it in no time.. The proper speed is slow enough so that as it cuts thru the material, the cut material spirals away from the bit in one piece...

If you decide to use the 1/4" bit, be careful that you don't drill down any more then to just cut off the rivit head. If you go thru the fitting or worse, thru the boom, you will end up having to thru bolt as a 3/16" rivet will not hold in a 1/4" hole...
 
If you really can't get the top of the rivet off then saw through the fairlead just above the boom with a hacksaw (you're going to replace it anyway) and then tap the rivets into the boom.

Don't try and saw too close to the boom or you'll mark it.

I found tapping the aft rivet in can be tricky as the hole in the plug may not be deep enough to tap the rivet through. Sawing the rivet means you don't have to tap it in as far.

Russell
 
Here's a tip for drilling metals: soft metal = high speed low pressure. Hard metal = high pressure low speed. Adjust as necessary as you go through the range.
You should use a cooling oil for all, but it is a must for harder metals. WD40 (lots of it) works fine if you don't have real cooling (or cutting) oil.
 
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