laserxd
Member
My daggerboard seems to not want to stay down upwind when I need it. It pops up about 2-4 inches a few times per beat. The brake is as far forward as it can go, how do you fix this problem?
Daggerboard Won't Stay Down
- Thread starter laserxd
- Start date
Krycek
Member
replace your shock cord or pull it tighter. That's more the issue than your daggerboard brake.
Friendly Dragon
Member
The new brake is probably the answer, I have heard all good about it.
Until I actually get one though I will continue to use the system I've found to work well. I got used to wedging a line into the trunk and still do but not as much. I'm not quite good enough to tack while keeping pressure on the board, yet.
What I do now is tighten my bungee so it leads from the top of the dagger board instead of straight from the bungee hole. Then I lead it between the deck mount pad eyes for the (out and down haul blocks) and underneath the mast hold down line (which I run through these deck mount pad eyes) and let it bend around the mast where it continues forward to the bow eye. The angle when the board is down is sharp enough to do the trick. I leave just enough tension in the bungee so I can insert the dagger board once I launch. I use the original equipped bungee doubled up and simply attach the ends through the bow eye. If it still comes up a bit I tighten the bungee tension.
Until I actually get one though I will continue to use the system I've found to work well. I got used to wedging a line into the trunk and still do but not as much. I'm not quite good enough to tack while keeping pressure on the board, yet.
What I do now is tighten my bungee so it leads from the top of the dagger board instead of straight from the bungee hole. Then I lead it between the deck mount pad eyes for the (out and down haul blocks) and underneath the mast hold down line (which I run through these deck mount pad eyes) and let it bend around the mast where it continues forward to the bow eye. The angle when the board is down is sharp enough to do the trick. I leave just enough tension in the bungee so I can insert the dagger board once I launch. I use the original equipped bungee doubled up and simply attach the ends through the bow eye. If it still comes up a bit I tighten the bungee tension.
Sailorchick
Member
Make sure your centre board brake is in good condition/position and actually working. Your daggerboard elastic should not be very tight (all this does is pull the board away from the brake)
Friendly Dragon
Member
Some boats have an issue with this and some don't. I got mine new 2005 and tried all adjustments, doubling brakes, making them, with and with out notch etc., with and without bungee. Looked at many different rigging suggestions at regattas and online. The best working set up so far for me is the steep bungee angle downward from top of board to deck giving more downward pull. The tension still allows the board up on the downwind.
The new boats I've raced (supplied by Performance Sailing) at championship events have had the same issues. To get the board to cooperate requires a critical adjustment and precise tacking.
My friends and competitors with the new brake , so far, report that it works.
Friendly Dragon
Member
It makes a huge difference. Noticable when competing against much better competitors regularly and unable to point well. Of course it's all critical and everything influences your performance. (boat flat, body movement with waves, mainsheet work, control line settinge etc.) But realizing that the foil is cutting through the water in relation to the sail suppling pressure to it means that 1" of lost foil is just that much more side slide adding helm. The faster the boat goes the easier it is. The hardest part is finding the groove and keeping it. This took me 4 years and over about 100 organized events to realize. I understand it well now but need to continue getting the experiance to master it. Those guys used to seem like magic, now they seem like prey and I'm able to continually and gradually get them.
laserxd
Member
It makes a huge difference. Noticable when competing against much better competitors regularly and unable to point well. Of course it's all critical and everything influences your performance. (boat flat, body movement with waves, mainsheet work, control line settinge etc.) But realizing that the foil is cutting through the water in relation to the sail suppling pressure to it means that 1" of lost foil is just that much more side slide adding helm. The faster the boat goes the easier it is. The hardest part is finding the groove and keeping it. This took me 4 years and over about 100 organized events to realize. I understand it well now but need to continue getting the experiance to master it. Those guys used to seem like magic, now they seem like prey and I'm able to continually and gradually get them.
Yea I definitely notice a difference
dont tighten the bungee as manny people say ther is absoloutley no need for a bungee on a laser all it is there for is to stop you from loosing the daggarboard when you capsise all you need to do is get a bit of car boddy filler and at the front of the daggerboard slot you will notice it is worn fill it in and gellcoat it over.
laserxd
Member
I agree with adding some filler in the front, it seems like there is just a little too much play. last week I put the new brake on and although it was better than the old school brake it didn't solve the problem,
Loosening the bungee isn't the answer either, I capsized rounding the windward mark and was just able to grab the end of the daggerboard before it slipped out under the boat, I think that a moderatley tight bungee helps keep it in the slot when the boat rolls (especially in waves), it slips out quicker with a loose bungee. If your board fits right in the first place you won't have to worry much about it though. I'd prefer my daggerboard be a little tight rather than loose.
Anyone that says you don't need a bungee hasn't had their board pop out in rough conditions, I learned the hard way.
laserxd
Member
It turns out the front of the daggerboard slot was worn down just enough that the daggerboard could pop up easily. I temporarily fixed it with some marine silicon and it worked perfectly today, I really like the new brake.