Critique my rigging!

[alienzero]

Took a bunch of photos while I rigged my Laser earlier this week and threw them up on a gallery: http://www.luckydragon.net/gallery/Laser_Rigging

I forgot to take a picture of checking the bailer to make sure it is closed before sliding the boat into the water. What other steps did I miss? How would you do things differently?

 

[Rob B]

OK. After a quick look here's what I got for ya.

Vang- Standard pro w/stock line.
Outhaul rig- Missing a block at the mast. Configuration looks too open and can get hung up on things.
Cunningham- You're going to bottom out that set up when the breeze gets over 12.
Clew- Not close enough to the boom- You need the boom sleeve.
Mainsheet- Your figure 8 knot on the boom block is facing the wrong way and will not allow you to properly trim "block to block". Turn the knot to face the other way.
Tiller/extension- Standard set up- need carbon all the way around.

 

[Chainsaw]

Interesting outhaul set up you've got there. Might borrow the mast loop idea myself. The block at the mast on my one is tied to the hole on the gooseneck and I have to rethread the outhaul line everytime I take the mast out. That's the slowest part of the whole riggin exercise.

Getting good at crocheting the loop in the end though, might make myself a rope hat with old bits of spectra.

There seems to be alot of "dead rope" on yours. Can you post a pic of the whole thing?

Any pics of how the blue line changes to the green line at the clew end?

 

[Ross B]

thats just basic Vanguard setup, check the Colie System, it doesn't get much better than that

you vang is waaaaay too loose, and will bottom out at 10, retie the floating block so that the loosest downwind setting has it at the top, meeting the boom block, this setting is with the boom at just a smidge above 90 degrees, with a bit of curve in the sail downwind

 

[Wavedancer]

Took a bunch of photos while I rigged my Laser earlier this week and threw them up on a gallery: http://www.luckydragon.net/gallery/Laser_Rigging

How would you do things differently?

When it's really gusty or windy (>15 mph), you may not want to tie down the clew until you are ready to take off.

 

[Ross B]

I think it was just an example to show how he does it

 

[alienzero]

Outhaul rig- Missing a block at the mast. Configuration looks too open and can get hung up on things.

Spied on a few other Laser riggings yesterday, and sure enough, you're right. I'll throw the extra block in for a while and see if it makes a big difference or not, although with the boom sleeve, the friction will be low enough that I may not need the extra block.

Cunningham- You're going to bottom out that set up when the breeze gets over 12.

Good point, I just need to use less line when tying the loop through the sail (and switch to a non-stretch line while I'm at it)

Clew- Not close enough to the boom- You need the boom sleeve.

Boom sleeve installed. So shiny!

Mainsheet- Your figure 8 knot on the boom block is facing the wrong way and will not allow you to properly trim "block to block". Turn the knot to face the other way.

Nice catch. Fixed.

Tiller/extension- Standard set up- need carbon all the way around.

Well, it's already on my Christmas list. Only a few more months until December, right?

I have to rethread the outhaul line everytime I take the mast out.

Yeah, I've tried to design the rigging to I don't have to retie those darn outhaul/cunningham handles every time I rig.

Can you post a pic of the whole thing? Any pics of how the blue line changes to the green line at the clew end?

I'll try to take some more pics this weekend and update the gallery.

thats just basic Vanguard setup, check the Colie System, it doesn't get much better than that

Dug around Colie's website but couldn't find any pictues or descriptions. Do you have a link to this?

Your vang is too loose

Haven't bottomed out yet, but then again I haven't really sailed this boat in 25+ knots. I may tighten the vang at some point, but for inland lake sailing, it seems to be doing the job.

Thanks for everyone's comments!

 

[49208]

No one mentioned the way you have the cunningham rigged is not legal under class rules.. (and it's not the standard Vanguard setup either)

>>> The cunningham control line shall pass through the sail tack cringle as a moving line. The sail tack cringle shall be at least one of the maximum of 5 “Turning Points” permitted by Rule 3(e)i <<<

Basically, you have changed from a cascading system to a simple purchase system. If you look at the following pic (from Gouv's rigging pics), you will see how the primary control line is led thru the cunningham. What you can't see is the other end is led down and tied to the becket on the lower cunningham block.

Also no one mentioned your trav setup, two comments there, you want the triangle section tighter (so the triangle is smaller in height) and increase the length of the loop formed by the bowline knot so that the bowline knot is within 5 inches of the trav fairlead. Doing these two things accomplishes:
1. Making tightening the trav easier. (more of the pull is transferred into the smaller triangle)
2. Moving the bowline knot out of the way of normal tiller movements.

 

[49208]

Missed my editing time window, here's two more comments:
If you switch to the cascading cunningham, you can/should reduce the amount of power in the secondary section - remove one or two runs in the purchase. 10-1 is what the stock setup is, 6-1 is what most people sail with

Ditto in the secondary control on the vang - 15-1 is the stock setup, by removing one run, it goes to 12-1 which will ease off in light air.

In both controls it results in less line to adjust, less line to get tangled and a little less weight...

 

[vtgent49]

I hope there is some carpet under that hull!

I also like to keep everything rigged under the cover, to elimnate knot tying and untieing, etc. I use a hook everywhere you have to tie a knot, such as Cham primary to the block connection. My board bungee stays tied, and unhooks from the board. I have a hook on my outhaul loop where it goes around the mast. My mast tiedown is a bungee on a hook that grabs the top of the gooseneck, after wrapping around the front. My clew inhaul goes thru the clew, then back where I cleat it through the old cleat.

I also have a bungee tight around the boom, that I push over the vang key opening, to keep the vang key in place.

Choice of hook is personal, but I sometimes use brummels, and sometimes cheap plated hardward store quality hooks with a spring gate, or 1/8" SS screw gate hooks.

I prefer hooks because its faster, elimnates errors, and my handles are always in the same place, which helps me when I preset things approaching the leeward mark, etc. Plus I can set my handles at max ease, and have them be right every time.

Al Russell
182797

 

[Ross B]

Dug around Colie's website but couldn't find any pictues or descriptions. Do you have a link to this?



Just email them, and they will send a full set of their MOJO instructions

ask nicely