Can I spray gelcoat with this?

When you talked with the experts at the fiberglass suppliers and you got your books and you watched the $3.99 introductory video and you read the chapters about gelcoat, what did they all tell you would be the right equipment to use?
 
Out of the 3 I'd go with LQT420's. But I'm with Dan about reading up more b-4 shooting. I'd also find something other then a deck to shoot for your first go at it. Nothing worse than trying to get the peel to go away when the gel pops off in the gun. I also wouldn't go the full 2% on the hardener drop it to 1.40 at the lowest it will still cure but it will take it's time ( you can't get this close with the west marine or hardware store squeeze tubes)
Shoot me a pm for more info
John
Also check out this site.
http://www.spraygunindustry.com/
They talk about tip sizes and what not. But you don't need a Bink's for shooting gel.
 
some very wise person here once said - never practice on your boat - do a friend's boat first.

well worth the short bit of time and materials to lay on some glass mat and resin to a 2 foot by 4 foot piece of quarter inch plywood. Sand it smooth and use it for target practice.
 
Thanks for the advice guys,
I've beed doing some more reading, and a lot of sources say about 2 coats without wax, then a final coat with wax, to kick it all off. However, I bought the stuff with wax in it. I guess that means that I won't be able to spray multiple coats without removing the wax, and sanding the first coat. So, do I buy wax free stuff for the first coats, or try to do it all in one application?
 
Dewax and sand. Be thorough, any missed spots will turn into blisters.

You spray a full thickness in one shot it could sag big time. Even if it doesn't sag your chance of bubbles goes way up. Cracking from uneven cure can even appear this way.

You'll be dewaxing and sanding all the coats only the last coat will be light sanding and much buffing. If it were me I'd add another coat or two to make up for the sanding loss.

Because you won't be working with a tacky surface I think going the other way letting each coat get well cured before preping it would be the way to go. A day and a half or two days each I'm thinking.

Tell the local supplier you want a jobber rate on 600 to 1200 grit paper.
 

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