bow handle replacement

kenwitt

New Member
Bow handle replacement.. any ideas to install .. old had wood threaded screws that appear to be held only by the deck.. new handle has machine threaded screws but will not set ... was there a plywood block now gone or opened wide with the larger diameter old screws?

tx for help ken
 
Orinigally there was a oak block glued to the under side of the deck used with wood screws. If what folks tell me now they use an aluminum plate and machine screws into threaded holes in the plate.

We use something like a nut pick or dental tool in the original screw holes to see if there is any hard wood left. If there is we go to oversized/length wood screws.
If the block has totally seperated we install a port on the front deck so we can replace the wood block. Usually the ones for the deck cleak and bullseye are in bad shape as well.
 
While on the topic, my new-to-me '77 AMF bow handle screws are fine, but the handle has corroded away! :p

I'd like to replace it with something, but it doesn't need to be perfect for now. Any ideas? :confused:
 
While on the topic, my new-to-me '77 AMF bow handle screws are fine, but the handle has corroded away! :p

I'd like to replace it with something, but it doesn't need to be perfect for now. Any ideas? :confused:

You can order a new bow handle from any sunfish dealer. Part number is 79020. ($23.50 plus freight and/or taxes from Annapolis Performance Sailing.)
 
I have had a bow handle pull out of a 1993 SLI Sunfish, which supposedly has a metal backing plate. The screws look like self-drilling screws (not straight machine screws), and had grey epoxy on them, so the holes may have been previously stripped and repaired.

Should I try to reset them in the same holes, or drill new holes at a offset by a 1/2" or so, using self-tapping screws of the same size? Any other ideas?
 
My question would be, is the plate still there? Do you hear somethig rattle in the hull when you roll it over?

This is where I get out the newfangled electronic stud finder - $15 from Harbor Freight - and test the deck density to see if the plate is still cemented behind the holes. If the plate broke away moving the holes won't help.

Sounds like you are headed for an inspection port install to put up the old backing or insert new backing and fasten the handle securely.
 
My question would be, is the plate still there? Do you hear somethig rattle in the hull when you roll it over?
IF the plate is still there, it would make sense to replace the screws while the hull is upside down. (To prevent the possibility of losing the plate permanently.)

Sounds like you are headed for an inspection port install to put up the old backing or insert new backing and fasten the handle securely.
There's a very sturdy drywall anchor made of gray plastic. It has two "barbs" sticking out.

I'm going to try wiggling/forcing eight of them in for my pulled-out Porpoise's hiking strap screws next month and let everyone here know how strong that procedure turns out. (Porpoi have no backing plates there, and have two hiking straps).

The existing inspection plate can only help for one end of one strap. :(
 

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