I was able to recover the remains of the original wood (oak?) backer block to which the original bow handle was screwed into. Putting this sad thing back into my SF seems silly. I like the idea of making an aluminum or stainless plate and epoxying it to the deck. Question for you SF Repair Gurus: How thick should the plate be? The bow handle is a favorite spot to secure the bow when cartopping, so obviously it needs to be strong. Any suggestions great appreciated. Thanks!
Bow Handle Backer Block
- Thread starter Treetops
- Start date
I use about 1/8" from the local metal recycle yard. It varies with what they have on hand, .125”, .118” (3 mm), .157” (4 mm). They even cut the trapezoid I want for a nominal fee. I epoxy it in and use the existing holes as my drill guide so I don’t have to mess with alignment. I tap the holes and run up anti-vibe (NyLock) nuts too.
minifish
New Member
I'll be reattaching my bow handle.
I plan to install an inspection port near the handle anyway. I'll use 1/8" metal as a backing plate, paint it to guard against rust, and use nylon nuts on the inside instead of epoxy. I'm just not sure how well it would hold being painted and then mounted with epoxy.
That or I'll weld some nuts to the plate. That may be easier for me. I haven't gotten to that point on my resto just yet to decide.
I plan to install an inspection port near the handle anyway. I'll use 1/8" metal as a backing plate, paint it to guard against rust, and use nylon nuts on the inside instead of epoxy. I'm just not sure how well it would hold being painted and then mounted with epoxy.
That or I'll weld some nuts to the plate. That may be easier for me. I haven't gotten to that point on my resto just yet to decide.
Mini - Why not just get a piece of stainless, the cost isn't that much more and the peace of mind is priceless. Nylon nuts won't have a whole lot of holding power, NyLock stainless steel nuts with an anti-vibration nylon insert hold very well. The epoxy will bond to the paint with the strength of epoxy, but the paint to metal bond will be just that. No magic epoxy rays will reach through the paint to grab the metal.
minifish
New Member
Yes, the locking nuts with the nylon inserts is what I planned.
I already have left over metal I need to do something with and it's not stainless so I need to paint it. I'd rather use metal I already have then go buy more. All I have to do is get the nuts. I have everything else.
I recently re-did my handle and I used a scrap piece of alum. diamond plate. easy to drill and won't rust. I bolted thru and used lock nuts - so I didn't see any need to epoxy it to the underside of the deck. I just put my port in close enough to be able to reach all four nuts.