Boom Vang Down Wind
- Thread starter Alex V
- Start date
DK Sailor
New Member
depends on wind
light0-8-snug
breeze8-15-tightish
alot-15-25-really tight
death-25-max-as tigh as u can
light0-8-snug
breeze8-15-tightish
alot-15-25-really tight
death-25-max-as tigh as u can
GeoffS
Member
Well I just keep the rule simple, DO NOT LET THE VANG GO SLACK!!!!
if the vang goes slack then youre letting the leech blow and you will loose boat speed. In heavier wind, if you feel like youre not that stable then you can tighten your vang to the point where you feel "safe" Once you have gone out a couple of times in 15+ then try letting your vang off a little bit more than before, the less vang tension the faster you go, but still remember NO SLACK!!!!!
Hope its not that confusing,
ChalmersP
if the vang goes slack then youre letting the leech blow and you will loose boat speed. In heavier wind, if you feel like youre not that stable then you can tighten your vang to the point where you feel "safe" Once you have gone out a couple of times in 15+ then try letting your vang off a little bit more than before, the less vang tension the faster you go, but still remember NO SLACK!!!!!
Hope its not that confusing,
ChalmersP
turquoise boat
New Member
blimey, downwind is a lot of places!
If I'm running in any wind I just let the vang go to maximum off, this makes the boat really manouverable and goes like stink, its also a great laugh when its blowing hard.
As I come more onto a reach, you can use a tell tale at the top and bottom of your sail, if the windward one at the top breaks before the bottom then put more vang on and vice versa. The time this gets changed is when I'm over powered when I let a bit more off to dump air out of the top of the sail.
I don't really use tell tales, it just looks right or not but thats a bit harder to describe!
If I'm running in any wind I just let the vang go to maximum off, this makes the boat really manouverable and goes like stink, its also a great laugh when its blowing hard.
As I come more onto a reach, you can use a tell tale at the top and bottom of your sail, if the windward one at the top breaks before the bottom then put more vang on and vice versa. The time this gets changed is when I'm over powered when I let a bit more off to dump air out of the top of the sail.
I don't really use tell tales, it just looks right or not but thats a bit harder to describe!
Rob B
Well-Known Member
How many top sections have you gone through while trying to bear away with a "Super tight" vang?
DK Sailor
New Member
zero, to me as tight as you can gets my boom about 3inches off the boat so it doesnt stress the top section much also i mostly sail up to like 25
I have a 12:1 vang
I have a 12:1 vang
Rob B
Well-Known Member
Is that w/your 4.7 rig? I know for a fact sailing a FULL rig in 25 like this will snap top sections.
Based on your previous posts I don't think you sail full rigs. Also, it looks like you may be new to the laser? How long have you been racing yours?
DK Sailor
New Member
sorry its with 4.7
like a year but i race phrf and ive been sailins since ive been 6
like a year but i race phrf and ive been sailins since ive been 6
Rob B
Well-Known Member
Vang settings between these 2 rigs is completely different. As are vang settings between ANY other make and model of boat on all points of sail. The 4.7 lower mast has a large bend in it that already sets the rig back without any vang tension. As such this rig can naturally carry higher vang tension.
We have to be careful when providing advise to new folks, (being a year in the laser makes you a new folk too). We don't want them breaking parts from inaccurate advise.
We have to be careful when providing advise to new folks, (being a year in the laser makes you a new folk too). We don't want them breaking parts from inaccurate advise.
sailchris
Member
When sailing on a run (typically either a very broad reach or by the lee, since dead downwind is slow) I generally sail with the vang just tight enough to allow the leech to breathe, i.e., to flex slightly in puffs and as the boat moves through waves. This means that my vang gradually gets tighter as the wind increases.
I don't think there are any hard and fast settings that you can use for any of the sail controls, you just have to look at the sail and adjust it to look the way you want it to for the conditions. When running, that means that the leech is tight enough not to lose power, but loose enough to promote good flow at the leech. This generally means that the leech can flex as described above.
I don't think there are any hard and fast settings that you can use for any of the sail controls, you just have to look at the sail and adjust it to look the way you want it to for the conditions. When running, that means that the leech is tight enough not to lose power, but loose enough to promote good flow at the leech. This generally means that the leech can flex as described above.
tobyayre
New Member
Downwind you don't really want the boom below horizontal, because if you heel over slightly the boom may hit the water and cause you to capsise.
laser158689
New Member
Ignoring anything less than 6kts, and talking about running...
Vang should be off. "Off" is your max ease. This should be set by a knot or similar stopper on the vang (loop handle, stopper ball, etc). There might be some discussion of how to find that max ease point, but generally, with a brand new sail and straight spars with boom on centerline and the clew tiedown attached, if you have to push the aft boom end down 1-1.5 boom widths to attach the vang key (vang at max ease), you're in the ballpark.
If you're overpowered, oversheet. You can still work BTL given the leech curve. If you're really overpowered, tension the outhaul and reduce the draft (obviously the max outhaul tension for running will be something approaching your upwind setting).
If conditions are very wavy, and you find you can only sail a broad reach safely, then, and only then, should you consider trimming your sail for that point of sail - including adding a tiny bit of vang. Given the waves, you will only be able to add a limited amount before you start "snagging" wavetopes with the boom end.
Vang should be off. "Off" is your max ease. This should be set by a knot or similar stopper on the vang (loop handle, stopper ball, etc). There might be some discussion of how to find that max ease point, but generally, with a brand new sail and straight spars with boom on centerline and the clew tiedown attached, if you have to push the aft boom end down 1-1.5 boom widths to attach the vang key (vang at max ease), you're in the ballpark.
If you're overpowered, oversheet. You can still work BTL given the leech curve. If you're really overpowered, tension the outhaul and reduce the draft (obviously the max outhaul tension for running will be something approaching your upwind setting).
If conditions are very wavy, and you find you can only sail a broad reach safely, then, and only then, should you consider trimming your sail for that point of sail - including adding a tiny bit of vang. Given the waves, you will only be able to add a limited amount before you start "snagging" wavetopes with the boom end.
GeoffS
Member
All my "advice" relates to standard rig 
the problem with unilaterally recommending vang off for downwind is that in waves large enough to surf and with wind over 12knots you're going to get unnecessary weather helm. Adjusting the vang to suit will place you better by the lee, and for transitions to broad reaching, for boat balance and speed. However, for a place to start experimenting, yeah, I'd recommend vang off. If the vang is too loose in general, the transitions to broad reaching will be clumsy and you'll luff for longer before finding a somewhat wide, but still theoretically correct, angle. Again, wide angles are a good place to start experimenting, but if you're racing, VMG has to be the consideration. The more vang you apply, the thinner your groove is going to be, up to point where you're trading speed for comfort. The whole idea of transitions is to maintain the highest speed possible (using waves and wind) while avoiding the DDW comfort zone and maintaining stability by purposely driving in and out of stability.
I've never seen this done in a 4.7, but it will work. There are famous examples of it happening in a radial, europe, streaker. It's a lot easier done than said.
the problem with unilaterally recommending vang off for downwind is that in waves large enough to surf and with wind over 12knots you're going to get unnecessary weather helm. Adjusting the vang to suit will place you better by the lee, and for transitions to broad reaching, for boat balance and speed. However, for a place to start experimenting, yeah, I'd recommend vang off. If the vang is too loose in general, the transitions to broad reaching will be clumsy and you'll luff for longer before finding a somewhat wide, but still theoretically correct, angle. Again, wide angles are a good place to start experimenting, but if you're racing, VMG has to be the consideration. The more vang you apply, the thinner your groove is going to be, up to point where you're trading speed for comfort. The whole idea of transitions is to maintain the highest speed possible (using waves and wind) while avoiding the DDW comfort zone and maintaining stability by purposely driving in and out of stability.
I've never seen this done in a 4.7, but it will work. There are famous examples of it happening in a radial, europe, streaker. It's a lot easier done than said.