Bailer brass bushing replacement

I bought a second boat to lend out to interested sailors, and I'm replacing some parts. It's a '79 hull. $850, probably overpaid but it's a fairly good shape. Mast step is still full of water after overnight, and there are not deck cracks. Looks like it has cubitainers, so no soggy foam blocks inside.

There was quite a bit of water in the hull. Mast step is fine. No drain plug, but it hasn't been sailed in a long time. Sitting upright with no cover. I'll change out all the deck fittings with new sealant.

The bailer bushing is likely original, and someone has gummed it up top and bottom with caulk and (I hope not) epoxy(?). I will carefully chip out the gunk and re-fit the new brass type.

The old one looks black - could it be plastic? Is there a hex shape on it I can get a wrench on? I don't want to just force it and break it out, do I?

Thanks in advance -
M
 
These might help... oh..not exactly in focus, sorry...
 

Attachments

  • DSC05892.jpg
    DSC05892.jpg
    44.8 KB · Views: 131
  • DSC05895.jpg
    DSC05895.jpg
    67.2 KB · Views: 92
  • DSC05896.jpg
    DSC05896.jpg
    103.5 KB · Views: 92
im assuming that the boat has been on the trailer for a while, you need to check the rails and see if the deck is separating from the hull, if it is look on the forum and it will give you step by step instructions.

but it looks like a good deal if the trailer came with it.

and the bailer looks pretty good, so i wouldn't worry about it, ive restored about 4 lasers so far.

and they didnt look as good as yours.

enjoy :)
 
The bailer bushing is likely original, and someone has gummed it up top and bottom with caulk and (I hope not) epoxy(?). I will carefully chip out the gunk and re-fit the new brass type.

The old one looks black - could it be plastic? Is there a hex shape on it I can get a wrench on? I don't want to just force it and break it out, do I?

Yes, it's plastic, and breaking it apart is the fastest way to get if out of there.
 
Yes, it's plastic, and breaking it apart is the fastest way to get if out of there.
Interesting. OK, here goes...

I also did some searching and learned a bit about cockpit / hull separation and re-glassing the rear bulkhead. Let's hope mine just pops out and the holes line up.

Thanks -
 
Plastic bushing popped right out.

Here's what was behind it...

There's obviously some material missing, but there is no movement and the holes align.
 

Attachments

  • DSC05898.jpg
    DSC05898.jpg
    51.9 KB · Views: 88
  • DSC05901.jpg
    DSC05901.jpg
    73.2 KB · Views: 80
Mike:

I have a '79 boat, and had to reconnect the after bulkhead to the inside of the hull. I looked at your pics and from what I can see, the two holes line up. This is good! If it was my boat, I would fill what gap there is w/ highly thickened West epoxy (the consistency of peanut butter), hone the hole and replace w/ a bronze bushing. It may be holding now, but I can tell you that the bondo on the inside is no longer very strong. This will get you through fpr a while, but don't be surprised if you see a crack develop near the bushing after a few years. My friend has a 1980 boat and the bushing had been replaced almost 20 years ago. in 2008 we noticed a crack on the hull coming from the bushing. It was holding but the bondo had failed. The only recourse was to put in two ports behind the cockpit and glass the after bulkhead to the inside of the hull. Hope this helps.
 
Thanks for the info.

It was a bit of an impulse buy because we have a top level sailor living here temporarily and I had a clinic planned and she needed a boat. I broke many of the rules of thumb in saying yes to this boat.

But....now I have it and we'll refurbish as necessary to make it a good practice boat and lender boat for people interested in a trial sail. My 15 year old is also growing into a Laser.

There is the slightest bit of movement between the cockpit and hull layers at the drain. I think you're right in that I need to cut two ports on the deck and do the fiberglass repair. I have top and bottom taped very tightly for now and it's holding water.

It looks like I also need to go along the deck seam and dremel out the gunk and re-epoxy there. A lot of water getting in at the bow and along the port rail seam.

So, for the record, Old Boat Buyers, read the buyer's guide here!...

http://www.laserforum.org/know/index.php?title=Complete_guide_to_buying_a_Laser&oldid=1542

Follow it, check the cockpit drain, check the rail seams, check the mast step, check for spongy deck areas, don't fall in love with a "cheap" boat when maybe a boat for another few hundred dollars might be a much better buy.
 
No problem, glad to help.

RE:
So, for the record, Old Boat Buyers, read the buyer's guide here!...

http://www.laserforum.org/know/index...ser&oldid=1542

Follow it, check the cockpit drain, check the rail seams, check the mast step, check for spongy deck areas, don't fall in love with a "cheap" boat when maybe a boat for another few hundred dollars might be a much better buy.
Good advice, although as I have told my wife, doing stuff like this is therapy; and there is a certain staisfaction in taking a boat which might otherwise be cut up and thrown in a landfill and getting it back on the water.
 

Back
Top